Received my parcel this morning. Thanks Tony.

KB

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That was quick. I will go the same eventually. Just need to fix some other stuff first. Rust, Brakes, Tyres, Suspension, Oil Leaks,
$200 for the black box is a good price.

This has been a great thread as it's got me thinking - I have a couple of restorations going at the moment and had been considering how to get my distributors re-curved to suit particular engine set-ups.
Have done some googling And I seem to have come up with 4 options:
1. Mega jolt
2. Nodiz pro
3. Stealth
4. Aldon amethyst
Did not know there were so many options but now comes the dilemma of what to get. The stealth and amethyst seem good choices as I want to stay close to an original looking set-up. Given that I'm restoring a clubman GT and MK2 Cooper S and both have only mechanical advance then the stealth would be OK but then the amethyst gives the option of using manifold vacuum for load calibration. What do people think?
Cheers
Rod

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1967 New British Racing Green Mk1 Cooper S, 1967 Lake Green 1275 MG Midget, 1969 Jet Red / Crystal White Mk2 Cooper S, 1972 Gambier Turquoise Clubman GT (ex police), 1972 Camino Gold Clubman GT, 2009 JCW Challenge Edition, Megane RS265, Clio RS220.

I've had the Stealth box running for a while now.
Only problem has been no spark at plugs below ~11.0V when cold cranking. I don't know whether it's the Stealth black box or the Powerspark dizzy module. I will bypass the black box when cold tomorrow, and see what I get.

[edit] it was 2deg C in the garage this morning. I cranked it cold with plugs in, and got spark from the coil (a spark plug connected) both with and without the black box in use.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well I finally got around to playing with my dizzy today. I just removed the secondary spring and finished with a curve close to what GR recommended.

That looks very good.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Be a few weeks before I'm ready to install mine. Might have to make a Doctors' appointment to get mine sorted.

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Did you see any improvement in performance with the changes you made.

Well I have to say that I have broken my golden rule of not doing more than one thing at a time. The car is in bits at the moment. But I am thinking of slapping it back together for a test drive. I will update after I have gone for a thrash.

I once bought a new Pertronix Ignitor II dizzy from the states (dizzy body made in China I think). It had a curve like your original one.
In my 1360, it was effing useless- no low or midrange torque when max advance was set at 4000 as per usual. Top end was OK.
So I ripped it off and put the modded Pulsar dizzy back in, same curve as the screenshot I posted. I found INSTANT torque improvement.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Update. Took it for a run today and the changes i made have dropped my dead spot 1000rpm. Might change my main jets from 160 to 170 and see it that helps.

What choke tubes are you running?
I'm using 36 chokes and find 160 too lean. 168 or 170 are fine in summer but I've put 175s in for winter.
I use a 45 Dellorto, but find main jets usually run same the same size as DCOE Webers with the same choke size.

Borrow an A/F meter & sensor off someone and go for a drive. or buy a little dyno time.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Doc

This is what I started with when I bought the car and it was dead until 4000rpm. 45DCOE13 Weber
36 Choke ,150 Main Jet , 175 Main Air Jet , F16 Emulsion Tube , 40 Pump Jet , 50F8 Idle Jet , 3.5 Aux Venturi, Pump by-pass jet 50.

I now have the following.
36 Choke, 160 Main Jet , 180 Main Air Jet , F2 Emulsion Tube , 40 Pump Jet , 50F8 Idle Jet , 3.5 Aux Venturi, Pump by-pass jet blocked off.

I am going to go to 170 Main Jets and 50 pump jets and see how I go.

If I can get rid of my dead spot below 3000rpm I will be happy. Otherwise I will have to dyno it. It doesn't help either when you have 1.5 rockers with an unknown cam.

I'm running 1.5 rockers and an RE282 sprint cam. It will pull away clean (at part throttle) from under 50kmh in 4th gear now, not bad for a cam that some people race with. Getting the timing and jetting right made all the difference.

Best thing I ever bought was my Innovate MTX-L Air/Fuel ratio meter. I use a tailpipe sensor so it's portable.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Doc. Do you have air/fuel meter mounted in dash Or do you have a bung and use it when required?