Ive basically had the same experience as jproir....unfortunately found those guys before i found ausmini....bought some good second hand parts for cheap but anything they actually fiddle with, steer clear...

Thanks everyone for your input so far! I've been pretty busy the last week or 2 so haven't been on here much. i have managed to get some work done to the mini.

I found an old water pump in some spare parts that came with the car. i fitted it, i've just got to flush the radiator and fit it and flush the rest of the cooling system.

I pulled apart the fuel pump and cleaned the contacts, got it to pump fuel, hopefully it will do to get it running, but i'll probably replace it later.

as far as i've got so far, but going to tackle the ignition side next.

i've also taken a few more photo's, trying to workout what we have here.

the chokes on the carby have 36 on them, could be good!


Confirmed the engine is 1275


The extractors have a "PERRY" tag on them

Here is the Tags on the car, these are the only ones i can find, im not sure if there genuine or not?


Here is the only chassis number i can find on the car, its 41220 on top of the radiator shroud.


i doubt it is a genuine cooper s but im keen for info

cheers

That ID plate has been restamped and very badly if they were trying to replicate a MK1 Cooper S.
If it was car YKG2S2 1062 then the radiator stampings should have M2/06 and a number around 562

Some good videos on the Weber carb on youtube.
Jet size identification https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuXjqVoWulA
Float Level setting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WT_CXqG8tn4
And a full reassembly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dxO1TPWhlE and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ta3cBkXXIA.
It had been a few years since I did anything on webers and found these videos to be vey helpful.
Here are my specs to compare to. 45 DCOE13, 36 Chokes, 170 Main Jet , 180 Main Air Jet , F2 Emulsion Tube , 40 Pump Jet , 50F8 Idle Jet , 3.5 Aux Venturi, Pump by-pass jet blocked off.

Thanks for the info again gtogreen1969. Well at least I don't javelin to worry about trying to keep it original if not a genuine cooper. Annoying that people need to try and decive people like that though. Would there be anywhere I could find out what the tags should of been?

I don't mind a good YouTube video so I'll check them out when I don't have the motivation to venture into the cold garage

The original body number should be stamped below or adjacent that id plate - so have a look to see if you can find 1062 anywhere on the firewall. Can be hard to see as the numbers are usually painted over.

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Dave - 64 Nurburg White Morris 850 & 67 Morris Mini Deluxe (Bro's Car)
Previous Rides - 62 Morris 850 (Sold '03 - Now 'Lulu-62') & 76 Clubman S (Sold '99 - SFW-863)
+ Too many other classics

Of course the id plate is fake. No engine number.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

That and the ID plates were all stamped by hand from the front, they would never have gotten those digits that perfectly aligned in the factory! Looks like it has been machine pressed from the rear.

Have a closer look behind the brake and clutch master cylinders to see if you can see any numbers stamped there. Of course the original number could always have been bogged over or the ID plate could have been riveted over the top of it to hide it. I suppose the other major concern with the fake ID plate is that the car may have been stolen in a past life - assuming that is not the case, even if it isn't a genuine S it looks like a fun project and should be a great looking car that goes quick!

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Dave - 64 Nurburg White Morris 850 & 67 Morris Mini Deluxe (Bro's Car)
Previous Rides - 62 Morris 850 (Sold '03 - Now 'Lulu-62') & 76 Clubman S (Sold '99 - SFW-863)
+ Too many other classics

Umm, no. On the Cooper S they were stamped from the rear but the engine serial was stamped from the front.

"That and the ID plates were all stamped by hand from the front, "
No way. Only early minis were stamped from the front, ie early Coopers and 850s.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Nah, they were stamped from the front...

Are we playing the fake/restamped game?

Mine is stamped from the back, with the exception of the "Y" and numbers in the engine number

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Love em!

Are there any genuine cars with a black roof? (apart from black cars)

There are definitely UK spec cars with white or red bodies with a black roof, it might not have been a popular option in sunny Australia?

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=73891

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