My local crank grinder charged $50 last time. I think his is a black light fluorescent method.
There are other methods:
1. a `ping' test.
Stand crank on end on the floor and tap the top and 2 middle webs sharply with a small spanner. Each should `ring' for a few seconds. Turn crank on end and do the other one.
If it sounds flat, it's probably cracked next to that web. I have someone's 1098 crank with this problem.
2. Dyecheck test (Rocol):
a. Spray crank all over with step 1 cleaner. Wipe dry with clean rag.
b. Spray crankpins and mains with step 2 red dye. Leave sit for 10 mins or so. Hose off and dry.
c. Spray crankpins and mains with step 3 white powder/developer. Let dry, couple of minutes.
Any cracks will show as red lines in the white powder. This test is pretty good. It confirmed the cracked crank mentioned above.
_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.
