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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 12:56 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 8:17 am
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Location: san remo nsw
yeah the ones that the mini spares sell aren,t shaped at back, its like theyre printed.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 3:12 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
There was a fellow doing them for a short while there, but he gave the project away.

I managed to pick up one of his creations and its been excellent so far. No loss of clarity at all.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 6:46 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2013 5:44 pm
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Location: Camden
I made some badges in acrylic over 10 years ago and painted with Humbrol model paint. The badge on the car has survived well, although there is signs of bleeding into the plastic now. The paint is fine.
Bill


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 7:46 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2011 10:46 pm
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Location: S.A
I would love to do it in acrylic but it's just too dangerous now by today's standards. I'm glad the pair survived, I will give it a go in the next few days. I was wondering what a fair price for one of these might be, should I post on the eoi forum?


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 9:38 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Weelllll..... the repro Mk2 Cooper S ones which came painted were selling for about 90 dollars from memory.

These are a short run, and are at considerable trouble to yourself...so may ask more or less around this price. You may saturate the market reasonably quickly after a few dozen perhaps....

All this is highly subjective, and my own thoughts, I wouldn't want to tread on anyone's toes...

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All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 8:38 am 
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Location: Wollongong
69k1100 wrote:
I would love to do it in acrylic but it's just too dangerous now by today's standards. I'm glad the pair survived, I will give it a go in the next few days. I was wondering what a fair price for one of these might be, should I post on the eoi forum?


It what regard dangerous? We use poly methyl methacrylate in dental appliances. Only problem might be that some would yellow in the daylight. Look up a local dental laboratory and if they are friendly they might lend you a small amount to try. It's a powder liquid system and requires a pressure pot to prevent the monomer boiling during cure. Usually partially immersed in warm (45deg) water to aid curing.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 2:29 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2011 10:46 pm
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I have a pressure pot I built with a heater inside it so curing it isn't an issue. I don't think it should yellow though as the original badges were acrylic too? I was thinking about 40 unpainted, if I can perfect the painting I don't think they would be more that 70-80.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 2:33 pm 
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Location: Adelaide
I would take one for $40 unpainted.

Whereabouts in SA are you?

Cheers,
Tim..

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 12:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2005 11:48 pm
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Location: Hobart, Tasmania
I think I've found the solution to silvering the outer ring on this type of badge. I recently needed to silver some reflectors for some LED camera lights I'm working on. We initially coated them in gold using vacuum metallising, . This worked OK but they came out very gold and the process is expensive (although we already had the equipment). Then I found a product called Spaz Stix Ultimate Mirror Chrome. Its a very bright mirror spray paint that is intended for painting onto the inside of transparent RC car bodies. Its good enough that you can use the result as a mirror. It comes as either a pressure pack or airbrush paint.

I haven't tried it on a badge, but its compatible with acrylic and polycarbonate so I reckon it would work.

Tim

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