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 Post subject: Sill replacement help
PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 5:29 pm 
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Howdy people!

I'm needing to replace the outer sills on my rover. I've already removed the outer sill and cleaned up the body so that the new ones can go on except for a few things I wouldn't mind some input on.

Though the outer sills were pretty bad beyond even a thought to try and repair them, the inner sills are fine inside though surface rust has developed under the paint inside resulting in the paint flaking off easily. I'm not sure if this is original paint or not.

1. I removed the old sills by drilling the spotwelds on the bottom and using a cutting disk along the length of it below where the outer seam join is (the bit covered by chrome strip). I can't tell how the seams were joined so I didn't try drilling it and figured a flap disc to get rid of the reminant strip would be the best removal method. Anyone got a better idea?

2. The jacking point is structurally sound but has pretty bad surface rust that will be hard to remove. I plan to plate over the jacking point hole so it won't be used again anyway - would it be a good idea to remove the jacking point inside altogether?

3. What would be the best paint / coating / treatment for the insides of the sills before I weld them back on?

Any advice on this would be great - I don't particularly want to do the job again as long as I have the car!
Thanks!
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 6:18 pm 
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1. the old sills were spot welded too, you should be able to wire wheel them back to find the spots. If you use a flapper disk you can make the old metal really really thin and then peel the old metal away with a pair of pliers

2. I'd take it out - mine was rusted to nothing so I made a new one

3. I put POR15 inside mine on the surfaces that I wasn't going to weld, and weld through primer on the rest of it. After welding, I filled it with fish oil, then wax oil through holes I drilled in the inner sill for the purpose

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 8:03 pm 
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1. the sills on a Rover might be welded using a rolling thingy, same as the windscreen surround (I think)

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 8:07 pm 
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That sounds more like what I was looking at. There's no clear indents where the spotwelder was to give an idea where to weld.
Flap disc it is I think!
Thanks. :D


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 9:23 pm 
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"resistance seam welding" or "rolling resistance welding"...

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 9:27 pm 
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So given that would produce a nearly continuous seal along the seam and my spot welds wont - should I put some sort of sealer between the panels first?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 9:30 pm 
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you can't really, because the weld won't go through, weld-thru primer is all you can use. Any paint or sealer will also burn

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:05 pm 
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Hey Simon - where do you buy weld-through primer from? People just look at me funny when I ask for it :/

(sorry to hijack)

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:32 pm 
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smash repairs or welding place... it's also called zinc rich primer - but not cold galvanising spray. Mine came out of the spray can matt black

google it though, some interesting opinions

http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/top ... -of-steel/

http://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=9231

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:46 pm 
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http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/4739 ... ochure.pdf

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:47 pm 
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Thanks guys! :)

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