I have a Moulton Smooth A Ride kit to fit and I have completed the rear ones.
To fit the front cones I need to remove the old ones. Apparently the top arms need to be removed.
I've had a look and it looks nigh on impossible to pull the pivot pins out. One under the clutch and the other under the radiator.

What's the process to achieve this

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You need to decompress the cone first to get the load off the top arm. You can undo the main nut at the rear end and the two smaller nuts on the plate at the other end and then slide the pivot out towards the end with the plate towards the front of the subframe, but it is hard when the full load of the spring is on the arm.

If you already have hi-lo adjustables, you can decompress the spring by winding the hi-lo towards the lowest ride height setting until the cone is fully decompressed.

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66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
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I have a cone compressor.
I have raised the car up so that the suspension is fully unloaded and the rebound bump rubber removed and the ball joint is clear of the top arm.
I have a ball joint splitter so I can separate the top arm from the swivel hub.
Does the upper arm shaft really just slide out ?

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They should come out with a bit of leverage as long as things arent seized up inside. Once the bolt is clear from the rear of the subframe you will see that you can move the whole upper arm around a bit to get an angle to slide the pin out.
Not my favourite job!

Yes they slide out, however it is easier if the front brake pipe and the brake switch assembly is removed first.
As said above, leave the front plate attached to the shaft for removal. It is easier to refit however if the plate is added last.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You don't need to slide the shaft all the way out.
The pivot shaft slides forwards enough so that you can get the back end of the upper arm to move out.
Then you slide the pivot shaft back and get the front end of the upper arm out.

I get a small block of wood and use a pry bar to move the inner guard away from the subframe enough to get my fingers onto the front nut. A bit of wood about 50mm (2") thick is all you need. The inner guard will just bend back into position.

easier still with the engine out

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It is only a 15 minute job if you know what you are doing.

It took me longer than that to assemble with the subby out...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Five nuts. One screw. It isn't that hard.
I use ratchet spanners to help a little.

The clutch end is not too difficult, but the radiator end would probably need the radiator removed?
I also have a smooth a ride kit and the front donuts are a very tight fit. I used a lot of soapy water a bit of jiggling and a rubber mallet but they do fit.
Also check the ball foot cups have plenty of grease as I have just had to replace a cup which had dried out. And the ball foot cups have a different shaft diameter to the standard type.
Good luck

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Well, with renewed enthusiasm by you guys I attacked.
With significant jiggling I got the shaft out past the engine mount and brake line after removing the retainer plate.
I still couldn't remove the top arm as the ball joint on the end of the trumpet was still in the way.
I pushed the top arm back into the sub frame and then undid the cone compressor.
With a bit of WD40 and muttering under breath the cone assembly came out.

This is the old one beside the Smooth A Ride.



Now comes the install

Thanks for all your help as usual.
I'd be screwed without Ausmini and it's members

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

I've never seen them side by side!

The difference is significant!

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I've only ever done it once, and I didn't use a cone tool. With old cones there usually isn't any pressure on the top arm once the weight is off (be sure to remove the rebound rubber underneath the arm). I actually removed the top arm to get the cones out, as I didn't have the tool. However with the height of the smootha-ride rubber, I think you will need that tool.

Yeah I know I spun out when I did mine and put them side by side but I used the original trumpets