Just wondering if anyone sells a kit with all the studs, bolts, nuts and washers for original door hinges. I see kits for the reproduction/aftermarket aluminium(?) hinges that use metric fasteners but not for original ones. Failing that does anyone know what size the thread/pitch is on the originals so i can buy new fasteners? Unfortunately i lost them all after i stripped them down for a rebush. No doubt i will find the bag they were all in once i buy new ones

The threads are 1/4 unf

Don't forget that you need tapered washers and large penny washers for the upper hinges. Apart from the single bolt, you need two studs and a single rounded cheese head style screw for the fastening at the leading edge of each door mounting point.

I made new studs from 1/4" UNF hex head setscrews [grade 5].

OT but related-
Boot hinges are fragile (they are zinc? not cast iron). They strip easy, the maker should have used UNC threads in them not UNF as they are so soft.
I fixed mine by tapping them 5/16" UNC, then turning 5/16 UNC Grade 5 bolts down to become 5/16 UNC x 1/4 UNF studs.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Make sure you use hi tensile studs.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

The kits from "those UK suppliers" are good but chuck the studs they supply and fit HT made up ones. I think their bolts are Chinese cheese steel.

Thanks guys. My mini didn't have the tapered washers but will make some up using the top hinges as a guide with studs fitted to get the angle right. The boot hinges are in excellent condition so i think i may leave them as is rather than mess with them. Just want to get the door hinges sorted so i can fit up everything and get it sorted and make sure everything fits right before i strip down and prep for paint

Don't overtighten the boot hinges- the studs near the ends have very little thread length and strip out real easy.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Will do. Thanks again

The door hinge kits you buy with the studs/bolts are incorrect. They are a metric thread and are for the alloy hinges, not for the old cast steel type we have on our cars.

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Oz ones are all grey cast iron.
This was obvious when my son had a head-on in his Clubby, and the doors fell onto the road. Burstproof locks? haha.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Must have been something wrong with the door handles then.

When I rolled my mini it broke the hinges, but door held on by the burst-proof handle though.

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And yet the cast iron hinge passed the same ADR test as the locks.
There is no requirement for burstproof at all. (the word isn't in the ADR)
The door has to withstand a certain amount of side loading.

Remember: Those alloy hinges were made for the much lighter sliding window doors and not those big heavy wind ups that we have.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.