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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 8:06 pm 
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Hi all. I'm after some advice or confirmation as to whether I'm on the right track or not please. Perhaps you have solved a similar problem in the past?

For my current build (link in sig) I need to run a heater core as an auxiliary radiator taken from the heater tap. However I also want to run a heater in the cabin.

My thoughts are that I will take the water out of the heater tap, then have a gateway where I can choose to direct the water either to the heater or to the aux radiator.

I have done some internet searching and I think what I am after to enable this to happen is a "3-way bypass heater bypass valve"? But I don't know too much about them. Does that sound right? For example : http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/ ... 631/215456

I would like it to manage the following:
- Input = from heater tap
- Output 'A' = aux radiator
- Output 'B' = cabin heater

At the least I would like to select between
'A' or 'B'

But it would be an added bonus if I could choose between
'A' or 'B' or 'neither'

Advice would be great, surely someone else has come across this problem...is there another solution I can't see.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 8:23 pm 
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Hmmm maybe I can put the car in winter or summer mode by choosing the heater or aux radiator by a valve in the engine bay using any old hose hardware. Then run a standard mini heater tap valve to enable me to turn the circuit on or off from inside the cabin.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 8:34 pm 
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Location: North of the Harbour planning my next mini project
Just wondering why you need the aux radiator?
I have a slightly different alloy radiator to yours , Minispares C-ARA4441, and my engine runs really cool.
http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 0to%20shop

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 6:05 am 
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Hi Michael,

According to advice and further research, aux radiator is needed to control flow and reduce hot spots at number four cylinder.

I first saw this recommendation in a Minimania article:
http://www.minimania.com/Cooling__Contr ... ature_1506

The most relevant section is
Minimania wrote:
If you're significantly increasing the power output, I strongly advise fitting one of the aforementioned two-core radiators. And ALWAYS have water flowing out of the heater tap take-off. If no heater or auxiliary matrix is used, plumb it into the top hose. If it's put back into the bottom hose it won't work properly, if at all. The water going into the bottom hose at that point MUST be below that in the main hose coming out of the radiator.


I'm sure my cooling setup will cope with the temperature overall but this aux radiator will help as described above.

Also this was recommended by the engine builder and the guy who makes the supercharger kit. And a bit of further research suggests others make similar recommendations. But there are a lot of people who have very strong thoughts on the pros and cons of this so you will always find people who disagree.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 6:20 am 
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OK, that appears to make sense.
Maybe answers why my setup is going ok?
I have the heater on most of the time with hot water running through the copper tubing around the inlet tube.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 6:47 am 
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Ah okay so you are taking off from there and cooling it somewhat anyway, but more importantly you are managing the flow in the way they recommend. So that may be doing the trick.

My engine builder was pretty insistent on it. You can either go heater tap directly to top radiator hose to just manage the flow characteristics and ensure the water goes through the main radiator before going back into the block; or from the heater tap through an aux radiator to the bottom hose of radiator...to manage the coolant flow and to also provide additional cooling (in which case you can dump it into the bottom hose at the heater return as the coolant will be cooled and ready to go back into the block).

He said if don't do this you wouldn't necessarily see the temp as too high on the gauge but number four can be getting too hot.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 10:29 am 
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Location: Brisbane - south
What about this from Kent developments - called a dry deck kit.mseems to address the problem stated here?

http://www.kentautodevelopments.com/sho ... with-bungs

Cheers
Rod

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 11:17 am 
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Hi Rod, that KAD setup is the bees knees and I'd consider it in a future build.

For the current build that horse has already bolted I'm afraid - engine is assembled and running so at this stage I'll use the aux rad solution so I don't have to disassemble every thing!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 9:54 pm 
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hello. i disconnected the hose from going to the heater n put it in a aux radiator (i used a oil cooler) then plumb it back in the bottom hose of the engine. in the summer months it works great. i adjust the flow with tap on the head. come winter ill put it back to normal.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 5:49 am 
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Thanks DM that's encouraging that it works well and that's essentially what I'm going to do, but I'm hoping someone might know of the right valve hardware to have it all plumbed up permanently and just move the valve when required between radiator and heater. (Rather than disconnecting and reconnecting)

I might head into an auto parts store and ask a few questions of the guys there, unless someone has an idea of what to use off the top of their heads.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 6:57 am 
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DM72GT wrote:
hello. i disconnected the hose from going to the heater n put it in a aux radiator (i used a oil cooler) then plumb it back in the bottom hose of the engine. in the summer months it works great. i adjust the flow with tap on the head. come winter ill put it back to normal.


I seen his set up at the minis in the gong show great simple idea.
you able to post a Picture DM72GT ?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 5:32 pm 
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Commodore type heater tap?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 6:35 pm 
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peterb wrote:
Commodore type heater tap?

That's what I'm thinking.
Just search for 'Heater tap' on ebay and pick the one you like.

I kind of like the look of this one...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-way-Cable-Heater-Tap-Valve-Holden-HQ-HJ-HX-HZ-WB-6-cyl-173-202-inc-Torana-/131671551482?hash=item1ea83c6dfa:g:ySYAAOSw7FRWZ1En


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 7:27 pm 
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I love your work gentlemen thankyou. Morris at that price I'm going to grab it and see if that fits the bill. Cheers.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 7:34 pm 
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It is certainly cheap enough. I hope it works.
The other option is a load of brass fittings and some ball valves!


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