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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2016 3:36 pm 
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Bubbacluby wrote:
I thought it was just a matter of pulling out a stanley knife and trimming it and putting 4 screws into it to make it as per mk1... but maybe not.....

Thanks Doug.

Dave E im sending you a message

Thanks Brett


No they are very different. The mk1 are just a really thin shell like a cover. You could literally fold it in half if you wanted.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2016 3:41 pm 
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phillb wrote:
Bubbacluby wrote:
I thought it was just a matter of pulling out a stanley knife and trimming it and putting 4 screws into it to make it as per mk1... but maybe not.....

Thanks Doug.

Dave E im sending you a message

Thanks Brett


No they are very different. The mk1 are just a really thin shell like a cover. You could literally fold it in half if you wanted.


Ohh......

Thanks Phill. I didnt know that

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2016 4:20 pm 
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Bubbacluby wrote:
phillb wrote:
Bubbacluby wrote:
I thought it was just a matter of pulling out a stanley knife and trimming it and putting 4 screws into it to make it as per mk1... but maybe not.....

Thanks Doug.

Dave E im sending you a message

Thanks Brett


No they are very different. The mk1 are just a really thin shell like a cover. You could literally fold it in half if you wanted.


Ohh......

Thanks Phill. I didnt know that


Below is what it looks like when you remove the 4 screws and expose the oval steel plate. The oil and temp gauges are mounted in the plate. Then you remove the plate you can see the brackets that come off the cream single binnicle. The speedo is in the binnicle as per normal. The wiring and oil lines come thru the little circular openings that usually have the clear covers, insted they have rubber grommets. There is also a toggle switch on the right side of the black binnacle underside to turn the instrument lights on or off.

It's a complicated arrangement compared to the mk2.

Image
You can see how thin with the slight bending around the tiny chrome screws, these are hard to find too.

Image
Behind the black plastic, a steel plate, held by 4 more larger countersunk philips head bolts...

Image
Finally brackets that come off the cream binnacle....

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)


Last edited by phillb on Sat Mar 12, 2016 9:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2016 4:30 pm 
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Bubbacluby wrote:
I thought it was just a matter of pulling out a stanley knife and trimming it and putting 4 screws into it to make it as per mk1... but maybe not.....

Thanks Doug.

Dave E im sending you a message

Thanks Brett

That works I did that to a mini k one and put in my mk1 s


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2016 5:37 pm 
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Thanks phill for the images. They mount a lot differently to how I expected

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2016 8:25 pm 
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Goldbrocade_62 wrote:
Bubbacluby wrote:
I thought it was just a matter of pulling out a stanley knife and trimming it and putting 4 screws into it to make it as per mk1... but maybe not.....

Thanks Doug.

Dave E im sending you a message

Thanks Brett

That works I did that to a mini k one and put in my mk1 s


but you'd still have the vertical lines on it, so doesn't look quite right? I did the same with my MK2, but made my own frame etc. It's a bit agricultural but does the job I wanted

my traveller came with the frame, but not the cowling, I got very lucky and bought a cowling off a very generous and altogether great fella who is now on here :D

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2016 8:27 pm 
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Like this. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301896599142
The Mk1.5 Cooper S Speedo. :lol:

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P.S Just noticed the new sticker lifting. Hope its not stuck onto a 90mph speedo SN 4417/00 1376.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 12:56 pm 
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There's one on eBay UK - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162012198929? ... EBIDX%3AIT

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 2:58 pm 
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If you have got a cracked original you can get them repaired by a plastic welder, as long as there aren't bits missing.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 5:05 pm 
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Panthersteve wrote:
If you have got a cracked original you can get them repaired by a plastic welder, as long as there aren't bits missing.


How successful is this Steve, Is it very noticeable when done?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 11:03 am 
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Bubbacluby wrote:
Panthersteve wrote:
If you have got a cracked original you can get them repaired by a plastic welder, as long as there aren't bits missing.


How successful is this Steve, Is it very noticeable when done?


Bear in mind if it's for a cooper or cooper s it's all hidden . Personally I would go for strength as the whole arrangement weight hangs off the cream binnacle held by the 4 screws. I later found a better binnacle (since the photos above) that even though looked rough and ratty it at least wasn't cracked around the mounting screws.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 11:53 am 
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I bought a repro mk1 surround from Bob Davis in England
They are perfect. No question.
He can be contacted via the suppliers section on the Mk1 Performance Forums.
He also makes a range of brackets to suit Cooper S that often go missing.
Cheers Michael


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 12:04 pm 
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Some comparison pics against my original one.
£55 plus postage inside the best engineered packaging i have ever seen!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 2:10 pm 
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RNY997 wrote:
I bought a repro mk1 surround from Bob Davis in England
They are perfect. No question.
He can be contacted via the suppliers section on the Mk1 Performance Forums.
He also makes a range of brackets to suit Cooper S that often go missing.
Cheers Michael

Her to ,
Looks like he makes the pipes and brackets for the early vertical oil cooler (parts 13 to 17?) as well.
Cheers
Rod

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 10:52 pm 
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Thanks I have purchased a couple things from Bob about a wk ago.

Would like an original though :)

Thanks for everybodies input

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