For reference could these be made out of aluminum

Sure, they don't touch the cylinder wall.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Some months ago we approached our manufacturer about the cup spreader.

Their technical department said the cylinder should work fine without it but they would investigate manufacturing the spreader themselves and putting it in their slave cylinders in future.

As yet no news but will chase up.

Is 3D printing a viable option for manufacturing these? I have a NOS spreader that could be used as a sample for scanning. I've just had another small item 3D scanned by Officeworks at a cost of $15 per scan for this small size, although a second scan would be needed for the underneath part, so $30 all up. Apparently black is no good for scanning so it would have to be painted white.

The plastic materials they use for 3D printing are PLA, ABS and Resin. Would ABS be a suitable choice for this application? Describing ABS they say: "ABS is a strong and hard plastic which is used to make a wide range of products from car bumpers to Lego. As it is very durable product it has a long lifespan and is very hard wearing. A wide range of colours are available".

Printing ABS is $18 for 15 minutes. I've no idea how long it would take to print the spreader so 3D printing may be uneconomical. Just thought I'd raise this for discussion.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Any plastic will do as long as it's resistant to brake fluid. I can get them made in quantity on a small CNC lathe, would be heaps faster and cheaper than 3d printing.
The dozen I have made so far were turned on a Myford bench lathe then drilled in my mill. {edit] material HDPE.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

well that was weird - I thought I'd sent that message yesterday a PM - must've hit the wrong button

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Thanks for sharing this, have been bleeding clutch & couldnt get enough pedal travel to fully disengage clutch and had been going round in circles trying to sort this. Just stripped slave cyl removed the steel spring locator & replaced with cup spreader out of an old scrap cyl, now a much firmer pedal & full stroke.

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1275

Just fitted my Dr Mini clutch slave spreader....Thats how a mini clutch should feel! Thanks Doc

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A proper mini redlines at 13 500 rpm

I just rescued an old slave from my trailer load of stuff to go to the tip - it came out black, now it's almost transparent - very gunky!!

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

i can have them made in china, easy-peasy

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Would be nice if the people making these cheapo cylinders (in China?) could supply with one fitted. IMO without one they are not 'fit for purpose'.

Save us all the trouble.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi all,

Hey Doc, so your saying this cures the first 5mm or so of travel (after clevis pin free play) where the master cyl compressors but does not have any action on the slave cylinder?

I just replaced the clutch on my car and now have this issue, I thought it may have been needing a bleed (even though i did not open the hydraulic circuit) but i think i may have over adjusted the clutch arm as my last flat face thrust bearing was noisy also, either way now i can feel this extra free play now the arm is adjusted correctly.

now i have also realised that the clutch pedal sits around 8mm or so lower than the brake pedal as the master cyl rod length is shorter than the brake one, looking at the master cyl to pedal clevis pin area there is a gap to the base of the body work at the clutch pedal but the brake pedal rests on the body.

I am thinking i might remove the master cyl and extend the rod by the required amount to get the pedal even and this will give me a little more pedal stroke and not need the cup expander or should i get one of these spreader from you Doc and see how it goes?

thanks
Grant

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Minisport S.A. have listed clutch slave cylinder GSY110MS. Are these the good ones with the cup spreader or are they the ones without the spreader ?

MS would be the Minispares cheapo ones.
Genuine AP ones have the spreader I believe.

@Grant, drop in I have some spreaders here.

I will make another batch once I shake off this flu/laryngitis or whatever lurgy. Had no voice for a week now.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The cup expander won't give you more throw. It just helps support the seal. I just put a GSY110/180-657 clutch slave cyl in my car and used the old spreader from my original one. The one i put in should have a bit more throw because there is no circlip to stop the piston.

Not the best photo but it shows how flimsy the new spreaders are.