I suppose that my first attempt at an engine has started. Thought I might start a thread on the progress, pics, stories and stuff from the viewpoint of a novice.

Working with a near standard 1100 block (with caps) crank, cam and complete head. No g/box yet.

Repco tells me that the bore is good with under 5thou wear but still needs a bore. The crank may only need a polish. They have also recommended unleaded valve seats.
Problem is that they wan't to burn me $1400 for machining and parts. Does this sound right? that is no labour!!

Based on a JAM thread this sounds like a rip-off!

I would not mind starting a list of all the parts that I am required to get for the total rebuild. Where possible I am salvaging bits from a donor 998 and 850.

No
Its a little too much money and there probably engine builders and machinists around who have considerable experience building A series engines.

Send me a PM with your email address and I send you a list of parts you do need and some reliable experienced rebuilders.

Sounds a bit dear to me. I spent $1300 building my 1360 this year, that included rebore, 73.0mm Hypatec pistons, crank regrind, balance, bearings, oil pump, timing belt, ARP rod bolts, orange dot clutch & plate, gaskets & seals.
I supplied the labour.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My cam gring was $100
Block bore/hone/hot wash was about 120
Head unleaded conversion 160
Head machining and 'service was 120
Crank was already ground

Local Engine reconditioning shop in the Hills area.

Well I reckon they would not be to far of the mark considering you are doing an unleaded conversion on the head, a standard head service is about 100-140 and the inserts cost about $25 each plus machining so there is about 300 of your cost rebore and hone about 120 pistons about 250 crank grind or linish 100 bearings to suit another 100+ cam bearings and fitting, close and hone the rods, oil pump, timing chain, gaskets it all ads up quickly and don't forget to have it all balanced. I did a 1275 this year and I pay mates rates for machining and cost for parts and it still cost nearly 1200 and the head service and unleaded conversion only cost me $80 so your doing pretty good

Jon

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

He's right ^^^
I didn't see the unleaded bit, which costs a few hundred$$.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

mmm yea, sounds pretty good then adding up the cost of things. The initial price stunned me but repco say they have no problems with me paying it off as they do the work.

Now as for the rebuild - should I do it myself or pay the extra $500 for repco to do it and get the 12 month warranty they offer?

Surely with the help of Tim (local mini expert) a hacker like myself can rebuild an engine and save some cash.

I reckon save the $500 and spend that on the gearbox or other bits, I am sure with the help of your mini guru in Wagga and the help of the pthers here you will enjoy the rebuild and give you experience for future projects

Jon

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

Ok here is the itemised list
Block
Acid bath engine components - $27.50
Rebore and hone cylinders - $121
Mill block deck face - $60.50
Fit camshaft bearing to the block - $44
Crack test crank, grind crankpins, polish main bearing journals - $132
Close and hone conrod tunnels, align conrods - $88

Head
Crack test, valve service and mill - $181.50
Fit 8 valve guides - $74.80
Fit 4 exhaust inserts -$88
Operating supplies - $7.70

Parts
Pistons and rings set -$198
Conrod bearings - $38.50
Main bearings - $44
Cam bearings -$27.50
Thrust washers - $11
Gudgeon bushes - $24.20
Complete gasket set - $88
Timing chain tensioners $40.70
Timing chain - $16.50
Cylinder block welsh plugs - $14
Valve guides - $39.60
Exhaust inserts -$52.80

TOTAL - $1507.80

Will do it as a kit deal for $1350

What does everyone think?
This is the price for me to put it all together which would cost an additional $400

Cheers,
Andy.

looks like a good deal at $1350 for the kit, it will be a new engine when you finish and get the box looked over with the $400 you save and you should have years of happy use

Jon

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

I was going to build it myself and my price came to around $1200 too

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Can I get some advice on people who I should call about gearbox rebuilds.

Who have you used?
And what sort of money should I spend for a average g/b for the new engine?

It all looks good and its what is cost me for the same work.
You say you have a engine hacker - use him to teach you and to make sure it all goes together just once.

timing chain tensioner ??????
sice when
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

1100 motor had those 2 rubber rings on the cam sprocket, BMC quaintly referred to them as `the tensioner"..

If you fit an A+ front plate and cover, you can use the A+ tensioner. But really, you'd do better to turf that single row chain and get a duplex set while it's apart. The standard (non-adjustable) ones are cheap.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.