Using gasket goo on head gasket, a no go??

I remember it being a pain in the ass getting the gasket to sit where i wanted it while i lifted the head above then fitted the bolts

BIN THOSE %$%@#^ BOLTS- they are now 30+ years old, and crap.
I can name about 4 people on here (including moi) that have broken them off when tightening to recommended tension.

Fit some proper studs and nuts- much more reliable.

Gasket goo is generally bad news on gaskets, no need for anything on there. Silastic is even worse.......!

BUT... if running a copper 1275 gasket (that these days has bugger all inside it) I recommend a smear of Loctite 515 Master Gasket along the front edge, and across each end, otherwise you can get coolant leaking down the front of the motor.
I refuse to use these gaskets now, a Payen BK450 composition gasket is much better and stronger.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Get head studs.

I was one of the unlucky ones that snapped a head stud in the block.....luckily I managed to get it out without too much hassle.

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No more Minis!......For now.

I second that Head studs!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Heehee... that's 3 of em testified, including me.
Gafmo was the 4th one....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ive neverreally understood how to install studs. Ive done it before on door hinges and such, but how are you supposed to get the stud in there good..

you must screw it in right? how can you apply enough pressure to screw it in without a nut to grasp onto ?

Just screw it in, simple as.

If crud in the hole gives you hassles, screw a nut down onto the top of the stud, and then another one on top of that.
If you tighten one nut against the other, the nuts will hold the stud tight and you can use a spanner to srew the stud down into the hole.

Once you are done, simply undo the two nuts from each other.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

scrap that question.

Ill head down to an engineering shop in a few to see if they have the studs.. not feeling to confident though..

Just for the record, the headbolts i have look as if they are new anyway, still switch to studs??

you think its hard on a mini, try a ford v6 at the back of a reliant engine bay, as you put the bolts in, the head slips off as it is on an angle....!

as for the mini studs, ARP sell em new ive always found cheep old acl gaskets to be quite acceptable.

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speed costs....how fast do you want to go...

Well engine head studs are the bomb!!
Sooo easy, just slide it on over!
Last time it was a pain in the ass trying to align the head for the water hose, and then the gasket would move and the bolts wouldnt screw in argh.

The crappy copper gasket went and blew shortly after anyway :)

Of course i did a dodgy, and after the head was on, i switched back to the bolts :DD.

Unfortunantly my engineering supplies shop which permanantly displayed a "closing down sale sign" has actually closed down and none of the others had anything simular.

I dont think this is such a stupid move anyhow, as these bolts do look brand new. (head was recoed before i bought the engine).

No bolts in my block only studs - should I replace them at rebuild or reuse?

Also the head gasket is a black spongy one with bright blue lines on it- it was not stuck to either surface in any way and looked like it never been used - I know you don't reuse head gaskets normally but I never seen one like this before- what's the go?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

I wouldn't re-use if I could avoid, but My turbo engine has had the head removed twice since the first build 8 years ago and the same gasket is still doing it's job

I bought a new one after the first removal but GR said re-use the old one if it didn't tear, so I figured why not. This is the turbo type gasket btw. My block and head have been surface ground, not machined so this may be something to do with the lack of tearing.

For a good gasket life, I tension the head, warm up the engine properly, then tension again the next day (after cool down). If you do this you will find that you probably won't need to check again. I started doing this after using copper head gaskets and finding leaks after a few days. I don't use copper anymore, they are too exe for me.

I generally don't use any gasket goo on head gaskets, but make especially sure the surfaces are clean by scraping with a razor and Loctite "chisel" to remove old gasket. Interestingly, I use blue RTV on everything else, I don't have any gearbox gaskets anymore, the only places are where the engine/tranmission join (for the correct gap).

As for bolts, make sure the threads are clean in the block and put a dash of moly-lube on the threads and under head of bolt when installing. They do break though but I've only seen it during the tensioning process, so be prepared for a failure now and then or go buy some studs and nuts. I like studs for the head instal, so much easier.

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Just use the studs if the shafts don't look molested (ie, some butcher vice gripped them on or off in the past). Use stud extractors people! (not the drill type, the socket type).

What you have there sounds like a ACL monotorque gasket. Head gaskets don't necessarily "bond" as some people might think. They do however squash up when torqued down (hence the brand name "mono torque" to signify torque down once not twice as usual gaskets do settle once heat is applied and hence need to be retorqued, but I would retorque anyway regardless).

Don't reuse! they only coast $20 for repco!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

You can put on 2 nuts, and undo the bottom one and it will take the studs out nicely...
No damage at all and no need for a stud puller

Peter.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Nothing wrong with BMC head studs, they are way better than the crap head bolts they used here on Oz made 1098s etc. When these stretch/break, they do it flush with the block... can sometimes be a PITA to remove.
The later studs used from Cooper S on have a little centre hole in top, these are supposed to be better than early ones. I've never broken one of these.

Your pretty blue lined head gasket is an ACL Monotorque, these are the best available now for a smallbore.
DON'T re-use it though- a new one is only $20+.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.