Thinking about getting some to do a set of LCB's anyone else use it... anyone have any thoughts on the stuff?

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

I have read on here before that the exhaust can start rusting under the stuff if it gets wet (doesn't dry out as easily as nothing). Unless you are really concerned with under bonnet temperatures (turbo etc) I wouldn't bother (IMHO).

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

I had it on a 3 branch for 10 years and then wrapped a set of LCBs. I've used it and had no problems. It kept the bulkhead temps down up in the tropics quite nicely.

Some have had problems of the metal being eroded inside due to the extreme heat withing the pipes caused by the thermal isulation.

It can be had very cheaply by the way as woven fibreglass wrap from places like Blackwoods for about 40 dollars per 50mm x 20 meter roll.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Ive wrapped my pipes up all the way down to the diff region. Been like that for 5yrs (9000 miles). All seems ok.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I've had the extractors on my V8 wrapped for years with no problems. Certainly cools things down in the engine bay, and seems to make it run a little quieter. Just about to wrap a Maniflow Stage 2 LCB to go on the new 1360.

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

I have read about it in the past, most people seem to prefer the coated extractors instead, HPC i think its called...
edit: unsure of cost tho

I wrapped mine and am having no probs.
I can't get my head around the theory that it makes the pipes rust faster. I can't see moisture being trapped in there or the wrapping staying damp when you consider the temperatures involved.
Peter.

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)

$200 or thereabouts for HPC or jet hot coatings, inside and out. They won't rust, drop engine bay temperatures and don't make it even harder to get to your manifold nuts unlike wraps

If you really want to keep it cool get it coated AND wrap it. But don't be cheap and sandblast it then spray paint it with super-cheap exhaust coating on the outside... you need to reflect the heat on the inside! Incidently the opposite is true on the inlet manifolds - something even Visard refers to Oh and port-match your extractors to your head before coating them.

I highly doubt it makes a difference to be honest. Was dead set on Jethot coatings, but for a road car it would make hardly any difference to warrant doing...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I had my new LCB's ceramic coated by HPC in Wonthaggi. Cost $264- including GST and freight to get them and the inlet manifold (outside of manifold only) done. Looks great, prevents rust, doesn't discolour and reduces heat. I'm happy. Good service and quick. Google HPC for more info.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

Wrapping doesn't cause rust, but it does collect the rust flakes so it make look like a wrapped header is rusting more. Makes a big improvement in summer engine bay temps.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

So with the inlet inlet manifold you're wanting to keep it cooler inside, rite?

And pardon my ignorance - what do you mean by "port-match"?

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Yes.

Port matching means you make the size of the ports on the inlet manifold/extractors the same size as the ports in the cylinder head to increase flow.

We get it on the big ship donks. The exhaust pipes are lagged by inches of insulation. With no place for the heat to go it gets pretty hot inside the pipes. The exhaust temperature can build up to a point where small pieces of metal will superheat and blow out the stack if the engine's are run too hard. Therefore the exhaust temps are monitored to remain below 900. Otherwise the steel will erode and a hole will develop.

Mini engines aren't usually flogged this hard, but it still can happen in a small way when the metal gets overheated.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Ah ha - makes sense. Thanks.

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)