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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 6:47 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
BHA4786 on one paper sticker.
Switch wiper 2 speed
Other end of green Lucas box has Lucas label-
35927
Switch 57sa 34/05
Number stamped on switch = 35927A 2705

I bought it from Heritage MG Parts.


I have a 2 speed Clubby motor in the Wife's 67 Mini, it is using a headlight switch, according to the PO.
The 2 speeds work but it doesn't park. :?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Last edited by drmini in aust on Sat Jan 10, 2009 7:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 7:01 pm 
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The Mini King
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Location: Windsor, NSW
Just In case some people do not Know This,
You can modify a single speed wiper motor to a two speed wiper motor, By adding another pair of brushes to the brush plate, Provision for this is already there, you can do this by using a pair of brushes from a single speed donor motor, you then just put the fourth terminal on the terminal block, Walla two speed motor


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 7:08 pm 
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The Mini King
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Location: Windsor, NSW
drmini in aust wrote:
BHA4786 on one paper sticker.
Switch wiper 2 speed

Other end of green Lucas box has Lucas label-
35927
Switch 57sa 34/05

I have a 2 speed Clubby motor in the Wife's 67 Mini, it is using a headlight switch, according to the PO.
The 2 speeds work but it doesn't park. :?


I am not sure how this works, but it has something to do with switching to earth to make the self park operate , The head lamp switch will not do this


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 7:12 pm 
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John Smidt wrote:
Just In case some people do not Know This,
You can modify a single speed wiper motor to a two speed wiper motor, By adding another pair of brushes to the brush plate, Provision for this is already there, you can do this by using a pair of brushes from a single speed donor motor, you then just put the fourth terminal on the terminal block, Walla two speed motor

You can also modify a single speed square motor to 2 speed or variable speed by putting a switched or variable resistor in series with the field wiring.
Maximum resistance that works I found is 22-27 ohms, this gives more than 2x the original speed. If you go any higher the motor will not start on the high speed.

John, the switching to earth on the later motors is dynamic braking, it causes the DC motor to think it's being a dynamo and it screams to a halt.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 8:38 pm 
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998cc
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Just logging in and I see John Schmidt has answered your query. He is spot on with the wiring and that's how I've wired my test set-up. It will also test the single speed wipers of the same type when the switch is in the single speed position.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 8:48 pm 
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998cc
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Just a bit more info

Image

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 8:53 pm 
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64cooper,
My 2 speed toggle switch has pins 1,2,4,6,7,8.
Is that the Clubby one you drew?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 9:04 pm 
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998cc
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Kev
it is only for the switch that has blade connections for pin positions 1, 2, 4 and 5. However, I do have wiring diagrams that cover the switch you have, that is if it is a rocker and not the two speed toggle. I once worked out the switch connections for the toggle but need to search my myriad bits of paper that I write all these little things down on to find it.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 9:05 pm 
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No worries, me and the multimeter will suss it out in the morning... or sooner if I get bored. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 9:13 pm 
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OK so I was bored..

pos 1, pins 1-2-6
pos 2, pins 1-4-5-7
pos 3, pins1-4-7-8.

These positions may be arseup, I can't tell with a 2 pos toggle which one is OFF. Which side of a wiper switch body is the flat on?

Now- I'm not bored, just confused.. :? :lol:

I think it's time I snooped under my mate's late Mk2 S dash... :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 9:22 pm 
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1360cc
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64cooper wrote:
Just logging in and I see John Schmidt has answered your query. He is spot on with the wiring and that's how I've wired my test set-up. It will also test the single speed wipers of the same type when the switch is in the single speed position.

Thanks, your wiring lines up with the Clubman wiring diagram in the Black Book workshop manual and what John said - for a rocker switch. Doc and I need the wiring for a toggle switch for a round nose.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 9:36 pm 
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The Mini King
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drmini in aust wrote:
what side of a wiper switch body is the flat on?:


Doc Flat is on the Right hand Side as you look at the front of switch


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 5:56 am 
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John Smidt wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
what side of a wiper switch body is the flat on?:


Doc Flat is on the Right hand Side as you look at the front of switch

Thanks John.
I'll try bench wiring it to the MGB schematic, as the motor looks the same. I bet Lucas Oz only built ours, not designed it... :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 8:23 am 
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With most wiper motors I have pulled apart I find that it is very common for people to connect them wrong then they try and get someone to repair them. The little finger contacts that contact on the disc are often found to be destroyed as there had been a shorth through them as a result of wiring connected wrong. Ruining these contacts makes the Motors unrepairable as these contacts are not available any more. The Disc is fine I have plenty of those and Mine are Staimless steel. When playing aroung testing these motors "Please" replace the ignition fuse by a temporary 5 amp fuse just for testing so if you connect something wrong it will blow the 5anp fuse quick. Also work without wiper arms and blades fitted. The original fuse in the fuse box (35 Amp) only blows when it is too late and the contact damage is done. By the time a 35 Amp fuse blows the contacts had already been very hot and melted the plastic that holds them together making the metal go soft and distorted.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 11:56 am 
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Convertible Mini wrote:
When playing aroung testing these motors "Please" replace the ignition fuse by a temporary 5 amp fuse just for testing so if you connect something wrong it will blow the 5anp fuse quick. Also work without wiper arms and blades fitted. The original fuse in the fuse box (35 Amp) only blows when it is too late and the contact damage is done. By the time a 35 Amp fuse blows the contacts had already been very hot and melted the plastic that holds them together making the metal go soft and distorted.

Great idea - never thought of that! Is there any benefit in putting an in-line fuse of less than 35 Amps in the power lead to the wiper motor to provide a level of protection against damage during normal use? If so, what size should it be?


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