Im after some info on needles and whats available.

I have a large single SU i think its 1 3/4 inch SU, currently its got a gold needle in it, i dont know enough about carbies to say if its the right needle.

Im running 1100 60thou, 12g202, pretty standard setup throughout.

The carby has a RamFlo filter on it, so more air than the normal donut filter.

Whats a suitable needle, and is the gold one the right one to use. How can i tell what type the needle is, does the needle have markings on it.

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

You'll need to get some more info for people to advise on what to try . Simplest way to ID the carb is to post a photo , also an 1 3/4" should have 4 mounting bolt holes , an 1 1/2" will have two diagonally opposed and an 1 1/2" will have two vertically opposed . If you take the needle out you will see a code stamped on the neck (paralel bit of it that's inside the damper normally) that will tell the needles spec .

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Ok, two diagonal opposite, large bulb on top so 1 1/2.

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

You've got two options: either get it along to a Mini friendly rolling road dyno and get it set up assuming they have access to some SU needles (cost $$); or buy a stock of SU needles yourself and try them until you find one that suits ($). The latter course is cheaper BUT you may not hit on the right one and the dyno operator will set up the carb spot on and the timing too.

I just ordered some SU swing type needles from Mini Spares - they have a reasonable selection, they're pretty cheap and they arrived within 7 days. Postage was $17.

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

SU Midel, send the specs and they will advise a needle close to what it "Should" be. Around $14 a Needle.

BUT, i would take it to a specialist mini mechanic who is capable of dyno'ing or putting a sniffer up it's butt to see if it is getting the right ratio.
Once you have it tuned, it is a case of maintenance. That is it. Tuning will only need to be redone because of a failure, wear, or you have fiddled with it when you shouldn't have

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Have to agree with Arron Here
But what do you have
Pic from these below
Please note the flang to the Manifold for refeance









Ill do a How to on SU Carbs

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

hahahahah!!!! classic all the needles are made out of brass, so they're all gold coloured. The code for the needle is stamped on the part that's up inside the piston, you've gotta pull it out to see the code. They're often hard to get out, so I get a tiny little drill bit and a little way through the needle, via the locking screw hole, then use a pointer tool to lever it out

Vizard says M1, BQ, H6 or AN, with a red spring

compare the needles here -> http://www.morrismini.com/SUNeedlesV2.a ... ;BQ;H6;M1;

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

not all gold, my last carby had an actual red needle in it.

and this one has no paint dabs on it, and no markings on the end of it either.

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

The mark should be stamped across here...

yeh no markings

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

as per the above
Do you know what Cam you have and the guys in the know will be able to give you a ball park to start in

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

i took the cam out of my 998. I couldnt say exactly what cam it is. I just know it came out of a 1973 Leyland Mini 998.

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

So its a stock engine with a 60thou overbore using a 1 1/2 su on what type of manifold and using what type of exhaust??
Is the needle required Floating or Fixed??

Standard inlet and exhaust or seperate inlet manifold or water heated inlet manifold and extractors (if so what type, tri -Y, LCB maniflow, brownrigg etc....)

The more info the easier it will be to help.

Cheers Scott

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

Stock Manifold and Exhaust as well.

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.