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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 6:59 pm 
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Location: Wollongong, NSW
That looks great!

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 12:34 am 
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Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
Nice work on the custom turbo inlet pipe :)

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I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2019 6:10 pm 
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The dash ended up a little warped from the welding, but will be fine overall.
But, I wasn’t happy with the edge I got around the binnacle. The brake line edge ended up being a bit lumpy.
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To rectify this I clamped some wood as a ‘formwork’ to allow me to fill up to it with the fibre re-inforced bog.
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Once released this came up like so. Much straighter.
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Which, after lots more smoothing, looked like this.
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Then after 3 coats of wrinkle paint this.
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And finally this. It certainly isn’t perfect, but we stopped shooting for perfection a long time ago...
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2019 9:49 pm 
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Well done on the dash. That looks fantastic and as always - bog hides a multitude of sins :D

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I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2019 4:08 pm 
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Thanks Mearcat, there will certainly be some more bog used before I am done here.

Another chapter in the interior, this time the super exciting topic of sunvisors. Probably needed for a roadworthy so might as well get them done with the rest of the interior.
The original sun visors were long gone but my dad has had a set of aftermarket black ones stored in the original box since maybe the 70’s when he owned 1100’s from new.
These were designed to swing to the side, like all modern ones do, but back in the day this was obviously an advanced feature. I guess if you wanted such luxury you had to upgrade it yourself.

They came with a neat little mount that was in no way going to work for my application. Probably why he never used them actually.

Original mounts versus the shape I need.
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I initially tried the cut off the mount boss and braze it to some steel shaped to fit my roof rails, but it just melted, was obviously not the brass that I thought it might be.
Original mount on left, and the other one seconds after heat was applied…
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Anyway, here’s metal template shaped to fit the spot where I need to mount them.
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And made into two pieces out of heaver stuff.
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Note reverse curve required, this involved some pretty rough panel beating to get the shape.
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I then lathed up some new holey-bits
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And welded them to the baseplates.
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Which worked pretty well, then they were bogged and wrinkled painted like the dash, resulting in this.
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They look pretty sweet, and will go with the rest of my all-black interior nicely.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2019 4:27 pm 
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Location: Brisbane QLD
Very cool mate ! It’s going to look sick


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2020 4:32 pm 
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Long time no update. Jumping around a bit here, but this is the story of the drive shafts.
After the subframe, the next most fundamental connection between the Morris chassis and the Toyota motor must be the driveshafts.
I spent a lot of time positioning the motor originally to allow equal length drive shafts and made up the dummy shaft to check lengths.

After carting the 1500 and toyota shafts around from shed to shed for ages I finally decided to just make up some test shafts to verify that it all worked.
Image

I am using the 1500 front hubs which have a larger outer CV then the normal Morris 1100/Mini one. This is kinda what I need. The left hand end of the 1500 shaft connected to the right hand end of the toyota shaft.
Image
Image

I made up this jig to hold them all in the right place while I welded them together. I ground down the ends to allow building up a decent amount of weld.
Image


Obviously just mig welding them together doesn’t result in a proper driveshaft. These are hardened steel. This was very evident in the first tack weld that cracked audibly as soon as it cooled. I thus adopted a pre-heat/post-heat technique. Which then morphed into literally the oxygen acetylene torch in one hand and the mig in the other. No photos of this process for obvious reasons, but it was lots of fun.
Image

Image

Repeat the process to get two.
Image

These shafts were not the final ones, but they did allow final fit testing and making sure everything worked like it should. They also survived several test drives and meant I could just take the whole set of shafts to the driveshaft shop for replication.

While I’m curious as to how strong they would actually be, the cost of finding out is probably not worth paying.

Here are the final shafts fresh from the driveshaft shop. They are now installed in the car so a roadworthy is not too far away.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2020 8:50 am 
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madmorrie wrote:
Long time no update. Jumping around a bit here, but this is the story of the drive shafts.
After the subframe, the next most fundamental connection between the Morris chassis and the Toyota motor must be the driveshafts.
I spent a lot of time positioning the motor originally to allow equal length drive shafts and made up the dummy shaft to check lengths.

After carting the 1500 and toyota shafts around from shed to shed for ages I finally decided to just make up some test shafts to verify that it all worked.
Image

I am using the 1500 front hubs which have a larger outer CV then the normal Morris 1100/Mini one. This is kinda what I need. The left hand end of the 1500 shaft connected to the right hand end of the toyota shaft.
Image
Image

I made up this jig to hold them all in the right place while I welded them together. I ground down the ends to allow building up a decent amount of weld.
Image


Obviously just mig welding them together doesn’t result in a proper driveshaft. These are hardened steel. This was very evident in the first tack weld that cracked audibly as soon as it cooled. I thus adopted a pre-heat/post-heat technique. Which then morphed into literally the oxygen acetylene torch in one hand and the mig in the other. No photos of this process for obvious reasons, but it was lots of fun.
Image

Image

Repeat the process to get two.
Image

These shafts were not the final ones, but they did allow final fit testing and making sure everything worked like it should. They also survived several test drives and meant I could just take the whole set of shafts to the driveshaft shop for replication.

While I’m curious as to how strong they would actually be, the cost of finding out is probably not worth paying.

Here are the final shafts fresh from the driveshaft shop. They are now installed in the car so a roadworthy is not too far away.

Image


great job! may you let me know, to which vehicle does that central driveshaft belong?

cheers
Axel

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2020 9:33 pm 
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Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
clubman S wrote:
great job! may you let me know, to which vehicle does that central driveshaft belong?

Those 4AGE equaliser shaft/layshafts are from a AE101 or AE111 Corolla/Levin.

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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2020 9:42 pm 
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Location: Melbourne
Mearcat is correct. From memory this was just sourced from Toyospares wreckers many years ago. They seemed to know what I was after and found one in a pile pretty quickly.


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