ANy one got any tips or hints to make removal and insertion of the radiator a much easier task, my attempts were just short of diasasterous today but after much swearing and pain it was back in, surely theres an easier way, so please help with some hints/tips/instructions

thanks
trent

_________________

There was a post recently showing you how to cut the bottom part of the shroud in half to make it easier. Do a search.

It's just practive. I've done mine a few times now. It was slow and hard the first time, but got easier. Could probably do it pretty quickly these days. The plastic flexible fan blades help.

_________________
"Life is not like a box of chocolates... it's more like a jar of jalapenos. Whatever you do today, may burn your arse tomorrow."

There's a how to in the how to section. Whether it is easier than the way you're doing it is another question!

_________________

I have started attaching the bottom hose first and then bending that down and around the bottom of the engine mount etc... make it a little easier..can be a bastard though

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

The easiest way would have to be to pay someone else wouldn't it?
Far more entertaining anyway

_________________

I hope you didn`t try to take all the screws from the cowl & rip it all apart in there?

Your`re supposed to simply undo & remove the 2 engine mount bolts ---underneath at the subframe there---& jack the engine up a bit & remove the whole radiator with cowl & all, in one piece...it`s easy-peasy & takes about 6 mins

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

The problem, if I remember rightly, was that you can't remove the whole radiator and cowl because the fan is in the way and you can't get to the fan with the cowl in place. At least on the early (60s) design Minis which have the original inner guard with the panel piece jutting out towards the radiator. This made it impossible to move the radiator back enough to clear the fan.

I believe later Minis (UK) changed this so you could do as Matt says and simply undo the lower bolts, move the radiator back towards the guard and lift it out.

The way we used to get around the problem with the 60s Minis was to ditch the cowl and mount the radiator direct to the guard with alloy brackets. Made removal a five minute job, but did nothing to improve cooling, although we used to angle the radiator more forwards and move it closer to the fan which helped a bit.

Now you can use the later UK type cowls and bottom mountings that allow easy removal and fitting. I guess you can get these from anywhere that imports Rover Minis like Brickworx.

_________________
Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

No, No ,No,,,

"ALL" minis ,,,, no matter where they`re from ,,,, can have the whole rad assy removed complete, as in one piece "COWL & ALL"

The Later English ones even redesigned the cowl into a one peice affair (probly cause it`s way stronger & less prone to breakages/cracking/& loose bolts etc)

The trick is to undo the 2 "ENGINE MOUNT BOLTS" from the subframe, & jack the engine up ,,,this will allow HEAPS of room to remove the rad in one piece.

been doin it that way for over 30 years

I really don`t know how anyone can actually do it any other way, i`ve known people to take all weekend doing it the "WRONG" way

Done the "RIGHT" way,,,The std mini rad takes about 6mins,,,the morris 1100 types take about 3mins.

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

it only took me one day lol

thanks for the replys guys, i possibly should have posted this before i took it out, but itll have to come out again when i put the charger on next week, so should make for a much easier and quicker install!!

_________________

Damn it, I just finished doing this according to the manual (removing the cowling) took me over 2 hours to get the bloody thing out to change a blown fuel hose then put it all back in

yes, it does take forever to get the rad out and back in again..
you've gotta do everything in the correct order when reassembling or you have to disassemble and start again.

the engine mounts are a pain the arse too

Just do what I do- tack weld 2 nuts to the inside of engine mount while it's off.
Done it this way for 40 years...
Then, you can line it up by sticking a #2 Phillips screwdriver through the subframe, & screw the bolts in from outside. `Easy peasy' as Matt is wont to say..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.