Can't remember the difference in sizes, but I believe as was said ^^^^ by Slinkey, that the change was from 8AM to 8Y, mid to late 64?

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

why wouldn't you want an 850?

http://youtube.com/watch?v=nVYKVPxyBPo

hot damn that's fast!

love the action at 5:40

oh and...



can i have it?

i hear from sources that the thick tail crank fit's the early blocks...


is this true?

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Yes the thicker tail fits earlier blocks, I got your PM! funny you going on about my age ( ) it's my Birthday today!

I did two Monte carlo challenges in an 850 Mini, The Driver and I built the engine, 40 over 850 with 295 head and 1 1/2 SU, made 52 hp at the wheels on the dyno (through a straight cut box) It used to scream at the top end, I forget which cam, but we later changed it to the Swiftune SW5 and it was much better low down, previously hills would kill it as it would bog off cam. Now much better!

I've searched, but can't find the pics od 400CAB the rally car, it's been in Miniworld a few times I will try to re scan them on Monday.

Mini Se7en engines used to make 65-70 at the wheels but that was at 8000 rpm with 649 cam, and nothing happened below 4,500, some people ran 5.2 diffs to keep the revs up! Would never work on a road car!!

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

excellent news... (about the crank/cam/tune info and ya birthday)

the sw5 is somewhat similar to the re13 is it not? and did you stick with the one cam bearing or did you go line bored?

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Not sure on cam specs, but yes, line bored and added all three cam bearings, also with Mini 7, used to run 940 (1275) heads and pocket blocks. Cranks were the weak point, even when tuftrided, but revs will kill any crank! Special tuning used to sell a tuftrided 850 crank for Mini Se7en, now all long gone! You can run S rods too, need to sleeve down little end and thin big end in mill. At least you should step up to 998 rods, then you can get away from the bolted small ends of 850's, but you will need to run teflon buttons to stop the gudgeon pin coming out into bore!

Can't recall whether thrusts are bigger on later thick cranks, I know the early ones are very small!

What are you doing for pistons? we used to use modified Hepolites for a sprite 948 I think, but these got really rare, so we used to use a lightened german Piston Karl Schmidt. Don't know if you can get these either now?

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

Even 998 ones give up if you lighten them too much!

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

These days the easiest way to get decent 850 pistons is bore it to use good 998 ones, and deck the block...
850 cranks were thinner in the webs than 998s, even though the stroke was shorter 850 cranks broke. I did one (front web).. then drove it home 5 miles.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

no

similar = comparable



but thanks for supporting your argument with all that extra information...

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they're similar in the fact they are both camshafts for A-series engines,
apart from that i think they do a very different job.

http://www.swiftune.co.uk/

i am using an re-13, but next time i will use an sw5

Cush, how's about, the famous Cushspeed home grind cam?

For funs sake, and to keep it classic, I'd try and source a 649, Vizard reckons they great, I mean great back then, there are better cams available, but hey, '649', the name, sounds cool.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

huh? i have absolutely no idea what i voted for, oh well

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'73 clubby s "cryo" - sold
Operation Evil Sesame Street!

nice work....

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