My friends I am at my wits end... I'm currently installing a disc brake setup on the front and have come to a big road block.

The passenger side was completely set up and torqued with a wheel on and everything's sweet.

The drivers side is buggered. I had everything set up and went to torque the hub nut, and after just a bit of tightening it has a spot when it rotates that it completely sticks and essentially seizes up.

I thought it was the drive flange a bit off, so I disassembled it all and used a heap of tools to make sure it was flush. No luck. I then disassembled the good side and tested the rotor and drive flange. No luck. Not the drive flange or rotors.

Next step I thought maybe the wheel bearings looked a bit off (timken taper). So I got a socket and banged it to make sure it was flush. Tested again and no luck. I then used the passenger hub on the driver side. Still no luck!

I have no idea what to do now. The bearings and rotors aren't the issue.

I have pot joints. All the balls are inside and rotate freely without the hub nut on in the set up.

Does anyone have any recommendations at what to do???
I didn't use a new circlip on the CV joints is the only thing more I can add.
It's been off the road now for 8 weeks and I've missed some great driving weather!!

Seriously appreciate absolutely anything you can add.

Are the hubs/uprights new or 2nd hand?

Same for the drive flanges.

if you don't tighten the CV nut all the way does it spin freely?

cheers,

Jacob

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

Is the inside of the disc bell catching on the swivel hub?

Is one of the bearing cups not fully seated in the hub??

Cheers Shane

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If it's not a Cooper S, the mini was designed to be modified!

Every component is brand new and came together in a kit.

I don't believe they are catching, as the rotor and hub setup that spun freely on the other side also would not spin on this.

It spins perfectly when done up by hand. Once the rattle gun gets on its game over.

does it have spacer between bearings, some do, some have it built in to bearing. If you slowly increase tension on axle nut does it just lock as in cv joint or drive flange touching, os does it get progressivly harder to turn. As for everything being new, that's even more reason it may be machined wrong. You can test bearing adjustment by puting a big bolt/washers, in place of axle /flange, tighten and see what happens.

Yep its got the spacer, it's quite loose when I installed it?
Nice tip about the bolt.
It gets progressively harder to turn as I tighten the nut, eventually locking into place, but only at one point.

Sounds like the spacer is too thin or the hub has been machined a bit thick... so when you torque it up it's preloading the bearings waaaay too much and hence it locks-up.

Jacob

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

Sounds very plausible;
however confused as to why 1 set of bearings and hub that worked fine would also not work on on it. Maybe some other fitting problems putting the opposite side hubs on..

Are the spacers matched to their bearing kits?
I don't believe they got separated during the build but they did sit on my bench for few days... Who knows!

Can you get the seals off without ruining them to swap them around?

I don't think the spacers are matched to each bearing but they do end up matched once they have been linished depending on the amount of play in the bearings they have when torqued up.

If you haven't linished the spacers, I don't think they are matched - or at least mine didn't look like they were.

If you are careful you should be able to get the seals out without damaging them. I think I have in the past and they have come out pretty good. Generally I just reef them out to remove them because I have no intention of re-use.

I think you need to disassemble and start from scratch. Is the problem side the first or the second side that you did upon initially assembly?

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

ok,,, 2 things i`d check before you rip all your hair out

one--> are the drive flange set-screws too long & the tail of them button-ing into the snout of the hub where the outer wheel brg grease seal is???

& two--> is there a bit/bulge of your steering arm protruding out-ward of the face of the swivel hub just enough to contact the disc-rotor?

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Mine were matched with serial numbers etched on each. Sorry I can't tell you the brand. However the fact they only bind at one point sounds odd.

Are they Timken bearings, or noname ones? and where were the new swivel hubs bought from (some are made in the far east now).

As I said in PM, bring over and I'll suss the problem out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The rooted side bearing spacer has almost a 1mm gap between bearings, the good side is minimal.
Mean anything to anyone?
I gonna go give swapping the spacers or even the bearings over.