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PostPosted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 6:14 pm 
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If you decide on the Bling Bling braided line as supplied by MiniSpares UK, do make sure it can't chafe or rub on anything on the engine. If subjected to vibration the braid acts like a file- it can cut through wires etc, or get cut itself.
One or 2 people on ausmini found this out the hard way......

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 6:33 am 
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1275cc
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Well I've figured out a way to safety run the tubing to the gauge but what are vibration coils? where do I get a hold of them?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 7:16 am 
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1360 LS wrote:
Well I've figured out a way to safety run the tubing to the gauge but what are vibration coils? where do I get a hold of them?

This is only used with a copper tube line.You put a 360* bend in the tube near the motor, to absorb vibration flex. Not needed with braided, hose, or plastic lines.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 7:18 am 
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When you get the copper tubing there will be an excess length on it - just form a series of coils with the excess length and cable tie them loosely togegether. The coils move and take up the vibrations rather than stressing the joints at either end.

Do it somewhere you are not going to be bumping it all the time.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 8:38 am 
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1275cc
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heres a pic of the tube I will be using as per minispares uk advice

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 8:44 am 
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I'd put it inside some rubber hose, and keep WELL away from hot things like exhaust... :wink:

Nylon is OK for pressure work, I used to build Formula Vee race cars back in 1970 that ran 1/8" nylon brake lines all the way to the hubs. Was rated at 2500psi... 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 8:53 am 
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Sounds great doc you still tinkering with them?? and yes I won't be going near the manifold/exhaust, I'll be running straight across under the solenoid and probably up near the fuse box around the charcoal canister and through a grommeted hole, or something like that whatever seems safer and feasible, thanks for the tip on the rubber hosing. I'll go to like supercrap or autobarn or some place and grab some hosing.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 8:59 am 
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Location: Sunny Shine Coast, Qld Australia
I'll go to like supercrap and grab some hosing.

20% off today :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 9:04 am 
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chers thaks for the heads up I might jsut do that actually.


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 Post subject: D Clamps
PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 11:30 am 
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You could also run your braided lines through (say) rubber insulated D Clamps to dress the line.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 12:11 pm 
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Careful about running the copper line near the solenoid. Its earthed and will give off a nice set of arcing sparks if it comes in contact with the terminals.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 1:39 pm 
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Next thing you know, some smart arse will tell you that you can't run a capiillary type water temp gauge because it might fracture behind the dash allowing the ether to escape and cause the driver to lose consciousness. :?
As for the oil pressure gauge I've never heard so much codswhallop in my life, although the way our 'Nanny State / Nation' is going it will probably be introduced into the next group of ADRs. :roll:

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 2:51 pm 
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Wombat wrote:
I'll go to like supercrap and grab some hosing.

20% off today :wink:

Yeah, off what is the question. Castrol Edge 25W/50 sticker price has magically gone up to $33.90 in the last few days. :evil:
No, at that price they can keep it. And their over-priced filters. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 9:16 pm 
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Location: Concord West, NSW
I found an electric smiths gauge and installed it in the car, works a treat.

The reason i did this was because i have young kids and if a line ever ruptured i did not want to have hot oil spraying out onto my kids.

Dan


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:04 pm 
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Location: Adelaide, SA
I got electric, but I got a few mechanical ones spare in the shed. I reckon mechanical is better becasue it works when the ignition is off, not a big deal for oil pressure BUT quite nice for water temp, on a hot day! 8) Reason I run electric is I can't find a cooper S style (black face with chrome bezel) oil temp, appart from brand new of course. Only oil temp guages I've ever found (and I use) is a smiths one from a 70s range rover. (black face, black bezel)

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