If you decide on the Bling Bling braided line as supplied by MiniSpares UK, do make sure it can't chafe or rub on anything on the engine. If subjected to vibration the braid acts like a file- it can cut through wires etc, or get cut itself.
One or 2 people on ausmini found this out the hard way......

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well I've figured out a way to safety run the tubing to the gauge but what are vibration coils? where do I get a hold of them?

This is only used with a copper tube line.You put a 360* bend in the tube near the motor, to absorb vibration flex. Not needed with braided, hose, or plastic lines.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

When you get the copper tubing there will be an excess length on it - just form a series of coils with the excess length and cable tie them loosely togegether. The coils move and take up the vibrations rather than stressing the joints at either end.

Do it somewhere you are not going to be bumping it all the time.

heres a pic of the tube I will be using as per minispares uk advice

I'd put it inside some rubber hose, and keep WELL away from hot things like exhaust...

Nylon is OK for pressure work, I used to build Formula Vee race cars back in 1970 that ran 1/8" nylon brake lines all the way to the hubs. Was rated at 2500psi...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Sounds great doc you still tinkering with them?? and yes I won't be going near the manifold/exhaust, I'll be running straight across under the solenoid and probably up near the fuse box around the charcoal canister and through a grommeted hole, or something like that whatever seems safer and feasible, thanks for the tip on the rubber hosing. I'll go to like supercrap or autobarn or some place and grab some hosing.

I'll go to like supercrap and grab some hosing.

20% off today

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

chers thaks for the heads up I might jsut do that actually.

You could also run your braided lines through (say) rubber insulated D Clamps to dress the line.

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"Show me the Mini!"

Careful about running the copper line near the solenoid. Its earthed and will give off a nice set of arcing sparks if it comes in contact with the terminals.

Next thing you know, some smart arse will tell you that you can't run a capiillary type water temp gauge because it might fracture behind the dash allowing the ether to escape and cause the driver to lose consciousness.
As for the oil pressure gauge I've never heard so much codswhallop in my life, although the way our 'Nanny State / Nation' is going it will probably be introduced into the next group of ADRs.

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Curly
'64 Cooper 'S' (Group Nb spec)
'67 Mini Marcos GT www.mm7056.wordpress.com

Yeah, off what is the question. Castrol Edge 25W/50 sticker price has magically gone up to $33.90 in the last few days.
No, at that price they can keep it. And their over-priced filters.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I found an electric smiths gauge and installed it in the car, works a treat.

The reason i did this was because i have young kids and if a line ever ruptured i did not want to have hot oil spraying out onto my kids.

Dan

I got electric, but I got a few mechanical ones spare in the shed. I reckon mechanical is better becasue it works when the ignition is off, not a big deal for oil pressure BUT quite nice for water temp, on a hot day! Reason I run electric is I can't find a cooper S style (black face with chrome bezel) oil temp, appart from brand new of course. Only oil temp guages I've ever found (and I use) is a smiths one from a 70s range rover. (black face, black bezel)

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T