That sounds more like it. Which was why I posted this....

I did the front end up last year, even replacing the front hydro bags as i had to get it roadworthy. I know the driveshafts had to be assembled seperated. The pots don't fit through the subframe but they also don't fit through the subframe of the car I got them out of, nor do they fit through the subframe of Beefa. I just assumed it was a mini thing. I'll pull a wheel off today, get some photos and post them. I find it hard to explain without diagrams so I'll do that.
Does anyone know if I can let the hydro fluid out and be able to move my car around the workshop if it has 12" superlites on it? It definitely needs to be done again, and now I have made an adaptor to fit an air con evacuation unit I can do it properly.

does a car with remote gearbox have the top engine steady bars? maybe the engine is rocking forward/backwards on acceleration, just a thought as cars with rodchange have the top engine steady bars on both sides.

_________________
i like to drive on rails

None of the remote box cars had a top steady. Even a Cooper S. It was added when they went to rodchange box in 1974, to stop the box jumping around.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The car the engine came out of had two steady bars, my car had one, and lyndas 72 clubby also only has one. The motor is very solid, i have replaced all the rubbers and engine mounts, and i took it for a road test with the bonnet off to make sure there were no nasty oil leaks or any chances of fires etc. all seemed ok.

I had clubman pot joints in my mini K when I got it, and I had a similar problem with a harsh clunking under acceleration, I actually thought it was the pot joints pulling apart - the ball housing separating to the point where the balls were nearly jumping out, though in hindsight it may have been the driveshafts hitting on the lower control arm. I had made this assumption because a key difference to universal type inners is that they have a slip joint for the driveshaft to pull in and out of. Are there any wear marks on the driveshafts from your drive around to show where its actually hitting? even a few seconds of it rubbing will make marks...

I ended up putting dry suspension in that car because the hydro was way too soft, I retained the pot joints, and no issues with the driveshafts hitting anything.

Letting pressure out of the hydro to let the car sit on the front bumpstops is a way of testing if that is your problem, but it's not a long term solution, and chances are there will still be that much pitch on take off to make it hit.

competition rear bumpstops may be a good solution to this one

and you should be running 2 engine steadies, it may be rock solid now, but the extra pressure on the rubbers will shag them quickly, with the extra steady, they won't wear out nearly as fast

Is the hydro system air tight? Perhaps compressed air could be used as a temporary means of lifting the car for moving it around?

"Does anyone know if I can let the hydro fluid out and be able to move my car around the workshop if it has 12" superlites on it?"

BMC used to advise that you could drive the car at moderate speed (up to 30 mph) with the hydro suspension fully deflated (so you could drive to the pump up staion). Having done just this, I would suggets that the larger diameter of 12" inch wheels could be a problem. The solution is simple - simply pack a few small sheets of plywood between bumpstops and the body. Works fine for at least 5km at suburban speeds....

Was Doc having a brain fade or did I miss the point when he stated that "None of the remote box cars had a top steady"??...I've never seen one without one.

Cheers, Ian

he means a second top steady.... don't doubt our doc!