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 Post subject: Re: clutch ?
PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:54 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Greensborough, Victoria
:mrgreen:

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Last edited by BALLISTIC on Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:18 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:59 pm 
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848cc
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replaced lay shaft all bearings
selectors and rod
syncroniser rings
and checked all the gears etc
the last rebuild was by link only a month ago so i feel confident that someone who has done this hundreds of times before knows what to look for

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:08 pm 
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1275cc
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:idea:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:34 pm 
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72clubman wrote:
i havent checked bore of master cylinder
i did primary gear and idler gear checks like 6 times each and even took photos with feeler gauge in

there are few good things for me to check, thanks gt mowog


Mate, sometimes these things'll do you head in before you can get on top of it. Your welcome for the 'assistance' but let's see if we can't but help to get it working the way it should. :D


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:10 pm 
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848cc
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i think i am about to give in and get it towed down to link and get them to sort it out
hopefully then i can get some kms on the new motor, i am all out of ideas

to me it seems it could be related to the lightened flywheel with 6 spacers to get the straps level

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:25 pm 
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Clutch MC should be 0.75" bore. However I have seen (and bought!) numerous Minis that had a 0.70" (big plastic tank) one fitted. They barely move enough fluid to let you get into gear.

But if it's a tin can MC, it would/should be 0.75", because a 0.70" brake MC has the flange mounted at such an angle that it won't fit properly as a clutch one.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:38 pm 
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848cc
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yea i just measure the bore @ .075

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 11:14 pm 
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1275cc
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BALLISTIC YOUR A NUT :D :D :D :D :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 11:58 pm 
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1275cc
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mini-dunger wrote:
BALLISTIC YOUR A NUT :D :D :D :D :D


Nah mate, gave some advice (and asked for more info) that was dismissed and go this as a reply . . . .
72clubman wrote:
replaced lay shaft all bearings
selectors and rod
syncroniser rings
and checked all the gears etc
the last rebuild was by link only a month ago so i feel confident that someone who has done this hundreds of times before knows what to look for
so I removed the info.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:28 am 
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1098cc
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Location: Lemmings, everywhere.
New lightened steel flywheels these days seem to have no clearence for the primary gear so when you install the flywheel onto the crank it binds or jams the primary gear up and causes the clutch to not disingauge. You need to remove the flywheel and in a lathe machine some clearence into the inside centre. I know your flywheel is not a new one but it may be a good idea to check this.

Also if the thrust bearing carrier is worn excessivly then the new cluch arm will need to move much further before the clutch will disengage. Easy fix, just purchase a new carrier or fit a spacer between the thrust bearing and the carrier. (a sump plug washer works well)

The 3rd problem i have seen is that often the push rod for the master cylinder is the incorrect length. The tin tank & plastic tank cylinders have different length rods and if mixed up you can loose clutch travel. Often removing the spacer under the master cylinder base (if fitted) can fix the problem.

Or you could just bend the clutch arm :evil: (ducks for cover) :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:27 am 
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848cc
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thanks 850man
do you know if the pushrod arm for a tin mc is longer than a platic, cause i was using a plastic mc (long neck type) on old engine

My flywheel was a old single piece type that had been skimmed down

Should i maybe just get my old flywheel and back plate and get them balanced and put that on instead?

could it be possible that i am getting too much travel on the clutch arm

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