You're all inspiring such confidence...

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Its easier than doing wheel bearings, put it that way.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

With this in mind and given that I don't have a reamer, is there any benefit in fitting the manganese bronze guides vs. cast iron for a lumpy-cammed roadie 1152 with standard (pressed steel) rocker gear?

I was considering the bronze guides, mainly because they're billed as "higher performance".. but is there any point in my case?

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Iron ones are pretty good. Nothing really wrong with them... they last pretty well.

I would not use the manganese bronze guides on a road motor unless you have a good reason.
My only reason is all my valves in this head are plain stem S/S, and they don't wear well with iron guides.
If you want the best, send the head away to get K-liners fitted into the iron guides. These are a thin spiral bronze bushing, very popular in race motors.
But they are not cheap (there again neither are bronze guides).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cool, cast iron it is then. Thanks gents

Now, to get these kids into bed so I can retire to the garage and get the head apart

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

I think last time i had mine done they were $20 per guide, all up $160 for the head, was four years ago though. I don't think that is expensive for the functional performance you get.

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

I don't think I need that sort of performance, this is just my roadie small bore after all.

So after a couple of hours in the shed, I have the head apart. A little Ghetto™ played its part getting the valves out in the form of my trusty Quick-Grip hand clamp nee valve spring compressor I did well, only one collet went flying across the garage - and I found it!

7 valves had now hard & brittle stem seals fitted - #4 exhaust was missing entirely, #3 exhaust was broken and the others intact. Even though they were extremely brittle it seems the others were still doing their job pretty well after all this time.

Chambers look pretty good, considering the amount of oil being burnt.






A bit of gentle persuasion with a brass drift and BFH had the guides out. You were almost right Mick, all but #4 came out pretty easily.. #4 took a little less gentle persuasion but succumbed regardless.

The guides. Interestingly, 7 are knurled, one is not...


Valve seats also look surprisingly good for 10-year-olds - no sign of pitting or recession. I've always used Flashlube in this motor because I didn't know whether or not it had unleaded seats fitted, and for that matter I've never actually seen a head with them in. Can anyone tell me if this has them?



So, now at least I know what I'm dealing with

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Looking at your photo, the arrow I've drawn is pointing at what appears to be the edge of a seat insert where it meets the cast iron.... looks like its been converted to me Try scratching it with a scribe (or a shank, since we're all ghetto now ) and see if you can feel a gap, or a step or something.... but yeah, looks like its been done

Yep looks like inserts there to me.
re the valve stem seals- the common black ones (with a spring or not) go hard pretty quick. Buy some Viton ones- many places eg Karcraft stock them now. A bit dearer but worth it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ah, excellent -- I was going to ask you where you get those. Thanks!

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

I have been bringing some Vitons in from USA, but now they are available here it's really not worth the trouble.
BTW some Nissan ones fit too... not sure what motor but I'll find the pic.

Nissan 1400. Looks the same as mine except the seal bit on mine is blue.

They will fit the guides whether they have the groove in, or not. They are a push on fit- but I use a smear of Loctite 262 to be sure, to be sure...

Pic borrowed from our friends in Seth Efrika...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well, valve guides and viton stem seals are on their way from Karcraft.

Couple of questions re: the valves...

1. What's considered acceptable in terms of stem wear? I have 0.280" stems measuring generally between 0.279" and 0.2785".

2. Valve heads measure 1.065" (exhaust) and 1.220" (31.00mm inlet), both with wide collets. I can find reference to the exhaust being an oversize small-bore part, but the only 1.220" valve I can find is a 1275 radius-colletted exhaust valve.

Anyone recognise the 31mm wide-collet inlet valve?

[edit] Belay that, found it, it's a 12G296: http://www.minis.com.au/minis/catalog/p ... cts_id=691

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

1.219" (31mm) wide collet inlet is a standard 998 Cooper valve.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Simon, are you still after a shop to get it sorted? And is Airport West to far out of your way?

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