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 Post subject: Heads
PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 7:02 pm 
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848cc
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Location: MinisintheGong [Somewhere on the South Coast]
drmini in aust wrote:
Yes you can get more torque (on a smallbore) from a radically modded 202 or 295 than a 940. Because, the ports are smaller and gas speeds are higher. Works great for smallbore motors.
But, this costs you time & $$$ for the porting and new parts (big valves, etc etc).
OTOH, a stock 940 (1100S) head with an hour or 2 spent deburring the insides will give better HP than a stock 295 at minimal cost.
As others have said I agree with notching the top of the block, if you are after HP. You won't get big HP with stock cams.
Torque with a 940 head on a smallbore may be less at lower speeds, however my 1220 motor was doing low 16s at Castlereagh dragway back in the late `60s. And the head was an 1100S with stock valves, double springs and a bit of basic porting.
Mind you the 544 cam and twin HS4s helped...

Sorry I won't be coming down next weekend, as I'm off to Brissy for Matt Read's 50th knees-up. :P


Thanks Kev. i knew you were going up to Matt's and overlooked the overlapping dates. i hope its a great night for Matt, after what he's been through he deserves a break and a good celebration. My bro & I had planned attending but he cant make it, I have the MITG run this weekend, one of our best:!: Its a must:!: (for me in any case I think you'd understand)

Thanks for the help with the head. It was Matt that told me that including X2 valve springs was not the be-all and end-all. I have only one spare 12G940 on an 1100s engine allocated for an off-road car I will build later so it makes sense to use the 'Waggot' head on my registered 998 car. Plus I'd prefer to run an upgraded cam and i dont want to plane the block etc to a reliable road car.

But what about the valve guides? Can i knock the valves out that are frozen in the guides :?: Can you please tell me are they easy to get:?: :cry:

Thanks in anticipation
Wayne

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 8:22 pm 
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Punch the valves out of the guides. Then you would want new guides, or K-liners in the old ones.

New iron guides are cheap, less than $50/set.
Bronze guides are 50% dearer but they can give problems- they all need reaming after fitting, & the current manganese bronze ones tend to close down in diameter after a few heat cycles. This can grab a valve...

K-liners are best, around $160 to get a set fitted.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 10:39 pm 
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848cc
848cc
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Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 10:38 am
Posts: 359
Location: MinisintheGong [Somewhere on the South Coast]
drmini in aust wrote:
Punch the valves out of the guides. Then you would want new guides, or K-liners in the old ones.

New iron guides are cheap, less than $50/set.
Bronze guides are 50% dearer but they can give problems- they all need reaming after fitting, & the current manganese bronze ones tend to close down in diameter after a few heat cycles. This can grab a valve...

K-liners are best, around $160 to get a set fitted.


Thanks for the help Doc, very grateful...

Have a good'n this weekend in Bne. i hope it all works well for Matt.

Wayne :)

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