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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 7:30 am 
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848cc
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Location: NSW/ACT
I was thinking that. When you purchase the cable do you get the whole lot?

and am I right in thinking theres the outer metallic spiral shell an another cable inside?? or by outer do you mean the housing around it?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 10:40 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
If you can't undo the knurled nut (because it's awkward) at the bottom of the cable outer, take out the 1/4" bolt that holds the flange below it. Then, remove the lot.
If you need to remove the drive gear, it then just lifts out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 12:16 pm 
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848cc
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Location: NSW/ACT
apparently thats the way to go to. Easier I heard?

do I need to lift the car up/remove the wheel to do it by reomving the bolt?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 1:12 pm 
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No. Get it from above.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 3:33 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Depending on your pot joint type, access from below is a little too tight for a standard type-A human wrist.

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All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 8:06 pm 
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848cc
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Might have to get the local mechanic to do this lol. All I've managed to do is cut myself. I can get the tip of my fingers onto the end of the cable. But caressing and tickling the not isn't gonna get it ofF. There's no way for me to get to the bolt that holds the driver as well. Might be able to if I rip out the rad but I'll just make a mess I'm sure lol


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 8:08 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
No need to do that, a 1/4" Socket set is nearly perfect for the job.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 8:11 pm 
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848cc
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Will the 1/4 go on the knurled nut or the bolt holding the drive?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 8:18 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
For the bolt. Its money well spent, you can use the set just about anywhere on the car with ease. My favorite set of tools.

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All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 8:28 pm 
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Managed to get nut turning. I'll post pics up. now to try and get it back lol


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 9:02 pm 
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Got it on and wired up. now for the test drive


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 9:10 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Quick turnaround!

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 9:32 pm 
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surprisingly easy once I found I could get it out using a screw driver inserted into the square cutout on the guard


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 9:38 pm 
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So here's how I managed to do it...

couldnt turn it from the top so I looked around the arch to see if I could reach for it.

someone mentioned I could use a long screw driver and tap it out. I was afraid I would wreck it if it was tight as I couldnt turn it by hand.

was very light to turn though once I used a screw driver. Didnt even need to hammer it. just used the tip to turn the knob

Image

got the old bastard out and used pliers to remove the leftover bit that was stuck in still

Image
got the new one in. Test drove and voila all is well
Image


all I need to fix now are the lights behind the gauge. I accidentally put the oil dummy light into the fuel gauge slot. Otherwise it seems to be ready pretty accurate now.



Time spent procrastinating and saying I was never gonna get it out = about 3 hours


time spent getting it in and out after I found out the screw driver method works = 12 mins. LOL


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 5:29 am 
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I like to wrap a small cable tie around the outer cable near the top to stop the top nut from sliding down into the depths of beyond.


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