If the car is a 68 the correct number is the one on the firewall near the master cyl. (which should match the ID plate just above it).

With later Minis the correct No is on the rad cowl so it sometimes causes confusion with the inspectors.

My 4 digit no. also matched 2 other (old) cars and a boat trailer.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

Pulled the head off because the car did some serious smoking after startup this afternoon. Found some beautifully glazed looking bores.... Can't wait to pull the engine out to rebuild it again.. Guess I stuffed something up during the run in, or didn't hold my tongue right. Oh well live and learn I guess....

Double post.. Oopsies

damn...

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

been lapping the flywheel onto the crankshaft

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

Yes I agree, the number under the ID plate is the one to use. Don't let them issue a new number, try to get them to use the prefix off the plate as well as the number. (YMA2S2 + 12345 if it is a Deluxe)

when I registered my '66 panel van I used the numbers off the radiator shroud, MV04 464 - I still remember it 6 years later

they usually won't (shouldn't) let you combine the number by taking one bit from the plate and one from a stamping - that's why I use the radiator shroud number if it has one, it'll be the unique one.

The numbers on the ID plate are basically irrelevant, as is the body number off the firewall

Actually..... Just pushed it outside into the sunlight and the bores are looking pretty good, so I'm going to go with my first theory of oil draining down the valve stems (this also has the added benefit of me not having to crawl under the car to get that pin out of the rod change).

It was only smoking at first start up for the day but once it was warm (about 2 minutes) no smoke, even fanging around no smoke. I parked up for 30 minutes to visit my Mum got back in the car and drove off and no smoke.. Anyone got any thoughts?? I'm open for suggestions.

Thanks all. They did say that they might add a prefix, which I don't want, but if they insist then using YMA2S212345 would be better than them stamping a new number. I'll post tomorrow night the outcome. <sarcasm> Can't wait for the appointment! </sarcasm>

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

Step 1 remove ID plate
Step 2 stamp prefix above the car number
Step 3 get car inspected
Step 4 re-fit ID plate over the newly stamped prefix.

My luck would be they ask where the ID plate is! LOL

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

They wouldn't know! The ID plate has no legal requirement and it never did.
It was just there to make the dealers life easier.

I didn't know that!

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

Sounds like valve stem seals. Did it smoke if you let it idle for a while then gave it a rev?

Dicko

Has brand new valve stem seals, but only the cheap generic ones supplied by mini shops. I took off the valve springs this afternoon and found that the valves do have what I would consider too much wobble to them, some are nice and tight though and a couple of the valve stem seal are harder than the others more so on the looser valves..

Thanks for the suggestion Dicko.

Oh and yes it does if I let it idle and then give it a rev, but not as bad as when I first start it up from cold.. I figure the seals can only seal against so much..