thanks stuart.

Stuart, I wouldn't bother with straight cut CW/P for a road car. Too noisy.
I don't believe the stock diff gears are weak, those I've seen break resulted from either other gearbox bits going thru them due to failure, or accidental chipping of the pinion during assembly of the lockwasher.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OK,


So I'm well advanced on stripping the gearbox. Got the diff housing off and the diff out, plus the oil pickup and input shaft and laygears (although it's back in temporarily).

Found the rest of the shrapnel floating around the bottom - it had AUB5040 stamped on it. Doesn't appear to be a mini item

What's the best way to lock the output shaft to undo the nuts either end?

I've tried a few different ways and can't seem to find a suitable way.

Anyone got any ideas?

KB

Bring it over and I'll do it for you in 5 mins..
Basically you need to lock it in 2 gears. USE 1ST& 4TH.
You do this by removing the shift shaft's detent sleeve, then rotating the shaft anti clockwise? until it clears the shifter forks. Then use a screwdriver to move the synchro sleeves into 1st gear and 4th gear.
I then put it on the ground and apply the weight of my boat trailer to it via a block of 4x3 hardwood. Pinion nut is done up to 150 lb/ft so takes some undoing.

?? Easier to bring it over here isn't it..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah, specially when I don't have a boat!

No wonder I couldn't do it on my own on the bench.

Cheers Doc - got family stuff on tomorrow, so I'll PM or ring you about it.

I've got a friend in the UK at present who can go to Minispares for me, so I'm keen to see what it needs before he comes back.

KB

I've checked my laygear and the bearing area looks ok but the middle seems fairly well grooved.Is this normal and if not should I start looking for a replacement.?

LOL - here's one I perpared earlier


ps - thanks Doc nice tip came in real handy today.

geez who i thought you were older
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Whodat working on his gearbox

Yes the pinion nut is a real bastard. I spent probably 20 mins undoing mine solo with a very long metal bar over the end of a breaker bar and standing on the casing which was gclamped to a wooden plynth... should have put it on video and sent it to that 'australias funniest home video show' show.
The big double row bearing in the rod 'box i stripped had a ball missing and i never found it anywhere. Watch the syncro housings as you drift the main bearing out- i didnt realise the 1st/2nd hub on mine was separating and the 3 balls went everywhere.

If it's a remote change box or earlier, pull the selector shaft detent springs out first. 2 plugs in back of box near sump plug.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Doc - can you confirm that these are the right numbers to get for my rod change box?
My friend in the Uk can get them, but he needs to do it in the next few days if so.

Yes Kev, they are right for your box.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

GEARBOX,4SYNC REBUILD KIT INC DIFF PRE A PLUS 14MM MAINSHAFT £119.66

PRESSURE PLATE DIAPHRAGM CLUTCH TYPE PRE VERTO £15.58

CLUTCH DIAPHRAGM GREY COMPETITION TYPE £26.96

CLUTCH PLATE ROAD AND FAST ROAD / [ HB8017 ] £13.05

FLYWHEEL STEEL ROAD/RALLY INERTIA STARTER £90.00

PIPE,HITECH CENTRAL OIL PICKUP PIPE £22.50

3.647 crownwheel and pinion $70aus

have i forgoten anything

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

Id forget the grey diaphragm, orange one is plenty strong. All the grey will do is wear out the thrust washers faster..
Even a blue Cooper S one is OK, I ran one in my 1310 (110HP @ crank approx) for years and it never slipped.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.