Hey

Yeah the clips go into the scrap metal bin...

The colletts you need is based on the valves you're using, so as you're not changing them you'll be right.

Yeah the 526 springs have served me well in the past...

cheers

Jacob

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

ok i bought a set of 526 springs, a set of late guides and a set of late valve stem seals, the hat type.

i have the head off, and am taking it to a head specialist tomorrow to have it done properly.

couple of questions if someone may be able to help.

on my old 202 head which has the later type valves, the top valve spring retaining washer is different, the collets sit deeper into it.

on my 295 head it has the early type valves with the single wide groove and the clips etc.

my question is, can i or do i need to use the top valve spring retainer washer off the 202 head as it allows the colect to sit deeper into it?

or do i use the origonal ones on the 295 head now?

here is some pics to show what i am talking about, this is the 202 head




and the below pic is the current 295 head with the early setup.



so, i discard the clips, use the 526 springs, and do i use the early or later top retaining washer with my early valves?

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'66 BRG Morris Mini Deluxe 60HP ATW

The colletts suit the valves.

You'll need to keep using the early type unless you want to change all the valves in the head as well! You can't use the later colletts on early valves.

No need to change to the later type if the valves are in good condition.

cheers

Jacob

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

ok cool. the valves are brand new, its all brand new, only done 1800kms just had the wrong springs

thanks again

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'66 BRG Morris Mini Deluxe 60HP ATW

Can I also suggest you check your valve lengths.

With basically standard components and the cam lift that you have, I find it at odds as to how your could be getting anywhere near spring crush.

When the head is assembled back on the engine, you should check for spring crush by ensuring that you can get a 0.050" feeler strip between the spring coils when the valve is fully open. Be sure to check every one.

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The wire those old springs were made from is very poorly drawn, any drawing marks like those have are a recipe for eventual failure.
I do hope your new springs look better in this respect.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

looking at the above pics, it looks as though the spring heights are quite different between the early & late type top retaining washers.

hey, the failure may be caused by poor/low quality springs and not spring crush. but they do look very compressed at full lift. but i have not measured them.

i will measure it all once i put the head back on with the suggested correct springs.

head went to specialist today so all going well should have it back tomorrow.

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'66 BRG Morris Mini Deluxe 60HP ATW

just had an interesting call from the head specialist.

he says with the valves i have, the retainers and collets, and with those 526 springs, i will need to machine the valve guides down aorund 3mm to stop the retainer from binding on the top of the stem seal/guide!

i have given him the go ahead to machine them to what he suggests is right, but does this sound right?

he says those springs will stop the spring bind but the guides need to be machined down.

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'66 BRG Morris Mini Deluxe 60HP ATW

Was going to mention to check the clearance between the retainer and the top of the guide (with seal on inlets) at full lift. 3mm seems a lot. I wouldn't do it. Do your guides have the recess for the top hat seal? If so and you intend to run these, no point in taking the top off the guide as the seal will still sit up, if you get what I mean.

On my race heads, to accommodate .500"+ lift at the valve, I push the guides down, inlets more than exhaust because of the top hat seal, to get clearance. I've never had a problem doing it this way.
I have made a tool to install valve guides and have spacers at different heights for this very purpose. If you get stuck, go talk with Ken at Mini Auto.

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Steve

Something just doesn't add up here. Your Exhaust Valve lift is comparable to stock valve lifts. I have fitted many camshaft with up to 0.410" Lift with little - if any - head / guide modification. The top of the valve guide when fitted correctly should be 19/32" (15.08 mm) above the Valve Spring Seat.

What is the Casting No. of your head and what valves are you running?

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does seems strange mate, i can't see this being right... something doesent seem to add up.. EDIT agree with Gt Mowog, i wrote this b4 i saw his reply, lol

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

I have it on good authority that those springs that broke are now made in China from inferior quality wire.
Others have had the same problem.

Minispares supplied C-AEA526 and 527 are OK.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Is there any difference in small bore valve guides and big bore, could the wrong guides be used to cause such a problem??

If 3mm needs to machined off the guide would this not of caused bent pushrods or brocken rockers or some such, NOT a brocken spring??

Smallbore guides are about 4 or 5mm shorter than 1275 ones. I'm not sure if still made- the last few smallbore heads I did, I had to shorten 1275 guides. The valves are a couple of mm shorter than 1275s, too. (apart from Mk1 S)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Smallbore guides are about 4 or 5mm shorter than 1275 ones. I'm not sure if still made- the last few smallbore heads I did, I had to shorten 1275 guides. The valves are a couple of mm shorter than 1275s, too. (apart from Mk1 S)[/quote]

So is the diameter the same?