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michaelb
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:45 pm 
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You know there's such thing as over cooling?


I think mine is currently over cooled with the alloy radiator :shock:
Never gets up to normal a the moment :)

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thomas_hb
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:49 pm 
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I guess you could say you were over-compensating.
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danny_
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:13 pm 
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thomas_hb wrote:
You know there's such thing as over cooling?

Yeah i do..

I would also like to try and extend the life of my engine parts and keep a good engine oil viscosity.. The oil pressure in my last mini like to drop down to 20psi after the motor warmed up.. I prefer the 60psi i have now..

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:19 pm 
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danny_ wrote:
thomas_hb wrote:
You know there's such thing as over cooling?

Yeah i do..

I would also like to try and extend the life of my engine parts and keep a good engine oil viscosity.. The oil pressure in my last mini like to drop down to 20psi after the motor warmed up.. I prefer the 60psi i have now..


If your engine is rebuilt right, you should have ~70psi hot, on the freeway without a cooler.
Even with cheap oil (Valvoline XLD Classic 20W/50 or KMart KMX 20W/50).
Both my 1412 and 1360 do.

Cooler is fine for track use, for anything else it is overkill. Mine is sitting on the shelf.. :P

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danny_
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:27 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
danny_ wrote:
thomas_hb wrote:
You know there's such thing as over cooling?

Yeah i do..

I would also like to try and extend the life of my engine parts and keep a good engine oil viscosity.. The oil pressure in my last mini like to drop down to 20psi after the motor warmed up.. I prefer the 60psi i have now..


If your engine is rebuilt right, you should have ~70psi hot, on the freeway without a cooler.
Even with cheap oil (Valvoline XLD Classic 20W/50 or KMart KMX 20W/50).
Both my 1412 and 1360 do.

Cooler is fine for track use, for anything else it is overkill. Mine is sitting on the shelf.. :P



Well my car was primarily built as a track/fun day car 8)

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thomas_hb
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:30 pm 
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Better hope those brakes work...
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danny_
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:34 pm 
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thomas_hb wrote:
Better hope those brakes work...


No need for hope.. I know they work.. They work well.

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CARTER_GT
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 11:19 am 
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danny_ wrote:
thomas_hb wrote:
Better hope those brakes work...


No need for hope.. I know they work.. They work well.


Untill metal shavings break the seals right???
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danny_
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:52 pm 
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CARTER_GT wrote:
danny_ wrote:
thomas_hb wrote:
Better hope those brakes work...


No need for hope.. I know they work.. They work well.


Untill metal shavings break the seals right???


Still why hope when you can panic...

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:27 pm 
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There's not really enough room between the pistons and bore for these shavings to get to the seals.
They might jam a piston, but I doubt it.
Still, I would have changed the seals too, they ain't expensive. :wink:

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danny_
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:28 pm 
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[quote="drmini in aust" I would have changed the seals too, they ain't expensive. :wink:[/quote]

I was quoted $370 for a brake overhaul which included new seals..

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:54 pm 
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danny_ wrote:
[quote="drmini in aust" I would have changed the seals too, they ain't expensive. :wink:


I was quoted $370 for a brake overhaul which included new seals..[/quote]
4 pot seals are worth $21.46 a side + GST. The rest is labour, and gravy. :lol:
Fitting them is not rocket science.

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michaelb
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:13 pm 
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I'm thinking if I gave a registered brake shop a caliper and asked them to repair as per Danny's then they should repair it to a safe condition. This should include removing any metal filings from the work carried out to perform the repair. I would also expect them to advise on the overall condition of the calipers including the seals.
This is what I expect and have received from my regular brake shop at Brookvale.

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danny_
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:22 pm 
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michaelb wrote:
I'm thinking if I gave a registered brake shop a caliper and asked them to repair as per Danny's then they should repair it to a safe condition. This should include removing any metal filings from the work carried out to perform the repair. I would also expect them to advise on the overall condition of the calipers including the seals.
This is what I expect and have received from my regular brake shop at Brookvale.



I asked them to remove the metal filings (first brake shop) and he said he will try his best but you might find a few small filings.. I also asked them to do a pressure test on the brake calipers to check the seals were fine and the pistons working... I don't think he did them to be honest.. i was slugged $25 each.

The 2nd brake shop in Penhurst removed all the metal filings and took out a piston to vacuum out all the filings closest to the repair area.

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Morris 1100
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:24 pm 
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You are kidding right?
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