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 Post subject: Misfire, help please
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 10:50 am 
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1275cc
1275cc

Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 1:52 pm
Posts: 2582
Location: Brisbane
Just got Dad's Moke back from being tuned up by a Mini Expert.

It has a newly reconditioned stock 1275 with single HS6.

First drive (on highway) and she went very well for about 15 minutes then she started to splutter and die. I waited for a while and she fired up and went for another 5 minutes, waited again then it happend again. Eventually getting less and less mileage before spluttering and dieing. I didn't think that I'd get home.

The Expert replaced dizzy cap, condensor, and points.

My thought is fautly coil. What do you guys reckon?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 10:57 am 
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1275cc
1275cc
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Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:57 pm
Posts: 3635
Location: Gulgong
Could be coil but....

I had the following happen quite recently. The points were a cheaper set. When the engine got hot the plastic bit that rides over the dizzy cam became soft (changing the points gap) and the engine would do exactly as you noticed. It would cool and it would drive okay until the process repeated itself.

Since the engine has had a tune up - check the work and materials used by the mechanic as history says that that will be here the problem is.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 10:59 am 
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1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 10:23 am
Posts: 1489
Location: Armidale, NSW
Is fuel getting to the carby OK? Fuel filter?
Is it fouling plugs?
Timing?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 11:20 am 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 9:16 pm
Posts: 714
Location: Gold Coast
was it raining!!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 11:35 am 
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1275cc
1275cc

Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 1:52 pm
Posts: 2582
Location: Brisbane
Raining? LOL

I'll check the points gap thanks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 11:45 am 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 3:10 pm
Posts: 891
Location: Brisbane, West Siiede
i would have guessed condensor


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 Post subject: g
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 12:14 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 12:38 am
Posts: 139
Location: Booragoon, Perth
Im with Mike Byron
The same thing happened to me, after having the distributor replaced by an expert. Replaced coils, condensors and plugs and leads... and it was moving points as discussed by Mike. Look there first. Im sure this is your problem and it may save u a few bucks too...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 12:16 pm 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Thu Aug 11, 2005 11:01 am
Posts: 1001
Location: And That's No Bull
My Kawasaki GPX-600R use to do that exact same thing..

It would run perfectly for around 5 mins then die. But after waiting for a few minutes she would fire up again and it would run perfectly for another five minutes then I had to repeat the process over and over again..

Anyway I ended up fixing the problem and it turned out to be that my fuel filter was clogged full of rubbish. As there was that much gunk in there the fuel could not be dilivered properly and would run dry. But after a period of a few minutes the fuel filter would fill back up again with fuel and it would run again.

So it might be in your interest to check your fuel filter :)..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 3:15 pm 
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1275cc
1275cc

Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 1:52 pm
Posts: 2582
Location: Brisbane
well it's not the coil.

Dad spent $500 to get this thing to run right. Very disappointing!!!!

Oh well now to find some feeler gauges to check the points. Then to the fuel filter.


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 Post subject: What has changed....
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 4:24 pm 
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1360cc
1360cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 11:32 am
Posts: 12390
Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Check what was changed most recently by substitution....brand new points can be cactus in a very short time if there is a problem, new condensers can perform not so new etc ....I would start by checking the plug leads and ensuring they are making good contact at both ends and and that the leads are consistent resistences...then on to fuel.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 4:56 pm 
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1360cc
1360cc

Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 7673
take it back to the guy you spent $500 and get him to fix it for no extra


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 Post subject: points
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 5:03 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2004 10:35 am
Posts: 177
Location: windsor NSW
id say points first they tend to close up very shortly after being changed if there cheap


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:00 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8606
Location: Brisbane
Take the fuel tank cap off & try again Ty

not kidding,,,Mokes are notorious for having the wrong tank cap fitted which doesn`t let them breath well enough & a slight vacuum is created making it so dam hard to suck more juice out of it

just a thought,,,seen many many mokes have this exact problem

silly hey?

:-)

easy-peasy

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:23 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2004 10:59 pm
Posts: 1285
Location: the Cold Toast QLD
thats a niffty trick Matt never would have thought of that one.. last place i would have thought of looking.. im still backing points plugs or leads though..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:41 pm 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Check the valve clearance. I once had a motor (not Mini) in a paddock basher that would run for 15 mins then quit- 10 mins later you could start it again and run for 5 mins then quit again.
Turned out all the exhaust clearances were so close- when it got hot it was holding the valves open. So no compression = no go. :lol:

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