Just got Dad's Moke back from being tuned up by a Mini Expert.

It has a newly reconditioned stock 1275 with single HS6.

First drive (on highway) and she went very well for about 15 minutes then she started to splutter and die. I waited for a while and she fired up and went for another 5 minutes, waited again then it happend again. Eventually getting less and less mileage before spluttering and dieing. I didn't think that I'd get home.

The Expert replaced dizzy cap, condensor, and points.

My thought is fautly coil. What do you guys reckon?

Could be coil but....

I had the following happen quite recently. The points were a cheaper set. When the engine got hot the plastic bit that rides over the dizzy cam became soft (changing the points gap) and the engine would do exactly as you noticed. It would cool and it would drive okay until the process repeated itself.

Since the engine has had a tune up - check the work and materials used by the mechanic as history says that that will be here the problem is.

Is fuel getting to the carby OK? Fuel filter?
Is it fouling plugs?
Timing?

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

was it raining!!!

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Raining? LOL

I'll check the points gap thanks.

i would have guessed condensor

Im with Mike Byron
The same thing happened to me, after having the distributor replaced by an expert. Replaced coils, condensors and plugs and leads... and it was moving points as discussed by Mike. Look there first. Im sure this is your problem and it may save u a few bucks too...

My Kawasaki GPX-600R use to do that exact same thing..

It would run perfectly for around 5 mins then die. But after waiting for a few minutes she would fire up again and it would run perfectly for another five minutes then I had to repeat the process over and over again..

Anyway I ended up fixing the problem and it turned out to be that my fuel filter was clogged full of rubbish. As there was that much gunk in there the fuel could not be dilivered properly and would run dry. But after a period of a few minutes the fuel filter would fill back up again with fuel and it would run again.

So it might be in your interest to check your fuel filter ..

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Opinions expressed by me are of my opinion only and are copyrighted to Kinkabell Corporation? 2006.

well it's not the coil.

Dad spent $500 to get this thing to run right. Very disappointing!!!!

Oh well now to find some feeler gauges to check the points. Then to the fuel filter.

Check what was changed most recently by substitution....brand new points can be cactus in a very short time if there is a problem, new condensers can perform not so new etc ....I would start by checking the plug leads and ensuring they are making good contact at both ends and and that the leads are consistent resistences...then on to fuel.

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"Show me the Mini!"

take it back to the guy you spent $500 and get him to fix it for no extra

id say points first they tend to close up very shortly after being changed if there cheap

Take the fuel tank cap off & try again Ty

not kidding,,,Mokes are notorious for having the wrong tank cap fitted which doesn`t let them breath well enough & a slight vacuum is created making it so dam hard to suck more juice out of it

just a thought,,,seen many many mokes have this exact problem

silly hey?



easy-peasy

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

thats a niffty trick Matt never would have thought of that one.. last place i would have thought of looking.. im still backing points plugs or leads though..

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No longer Ms Westwoods mini outside her original kings road shop

Check the valve clearance. I once had a motor (not Mini) in a paddock basher that would run for 15 mins then quit- 10 mins later you could start it again and run for 5 mins then quit again.
Turned out all the exhaust clearances were so close- when it got hot it was holding the valves open. So no compression = no go.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.