what is the best way to remove a stud from the subframe while the sub is still in the moke i stripped the thread on one and dont want to remove the subframe again

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busier than a 0ne legged man in a butt kicking competion

I'd put a nut on there, leave it 1.5mm above the stud, MIG weld the nut to the stud using plenty of heat.
When cool, put some oil on and let it run down the stud to the subby to lube the bottom thread.
Leave a while and undo.
If that doesn't work, it's subby out time..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You can buy/borrow a stud remover that clamps onto the stud (normally stuff the thread but in this case it doesn't matter) and winds it out or you can put a nut on and weld it and then just wind it out if you have a welder . These are the two easiest ways , depends on what gear you've got or got nearby .

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I used the Doc approved method on three of four and it worked well.

There is a canned substance that all the mechanics are talking about as being the wonderful ants pants for penetrating and loosening rusted and frozen nuts, bolts and studs.

Spray it on, leave it overnight and undo the whatever.

Its called "Yield"

im going to go and buy the stud remover, is a van handbrake cable same length as a mini or same as a moke
cheers and thanks allan

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busier than a 0ne legged man in a butt kicking competion

Some of those stud removers are the old offset disc type and you will not have room to swing it.
You want the type thay looks like a socket.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Stick a Weber on it.

So whatcha do with the 4th?

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

it came out with no issue