I've just brought a 1275 engine and box with pot joints, I want to put this engine into a Morris 1100 (yes I know 1275's are designed to go from 1100's to Mini's not the other way round )

what's involved in changing the pot joints to uni's or alternatively an I modify the 1100 drive shafts to fit the pot joints - I'm not a mechanic so if this is a really ridiculous question could one of the moderators just delete it quickly....

cheers

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'62 Morris 850 (Marion)
'65 Mini Delux - sleeper 1275/S discs (Ms Plum)
'69 Vanden Plas Princess 1300
'71 Wolseley 1300
'74 Austin 1300 Countryman
'94 XJ6 Sport 3.2
'04 Rover 75 CDTi

this needs some thought and discussion
Just quickly, the 1100 shafts are longer than the mini ones so you can't just swap the shafts (and therefore swap the uni joint / pot joint assays.

I am unsure what is actually involved in swapping the out shaft assays to uni joint type.

You would need a pair of diff output shafts , side covers and drive flanges off a Cooper S or Morris 1100S. (for steel unis).
Minimatic bits fit too, except the side covers.

If you just want to run the 1100 rubber joints, pinch these bits from your 1100 box.

<edit> as it's a rodchange box you need to keep the RH side cover, bore it to fit an S bush and seal if fitting steel unis.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My wife's 1100S has original everything and it has rubber uni's as does the 1100S shell I bought off the national kana king.

Morris1100, how did come from the factory. Doesn't change the outcome of the original question, however, and the steel Cooper uni joints are more preferable.

I'd prefer pot joints these days but I don't know if any 1100 type driveshafts fitted them. maybe austin america??

1100S autos had steel unis. axle splines same as the rubber ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm happy to run with the rubber uni's (I thought the steel ones with the nylon caps were very hard to find now)

how do I tell if it's a rod change 'box? I have the shiter mechanism here on the floor - it has two rods with two different fitting going forward to the gearbox.

If I stay with rubber uni's do I need to fit the S bush?

_________________
'62 Morris 850 (Marion)
'65 Mini Delux - sleeper 1275/S discs (Ms Plum)
'69 Vanden Plas Princess 1300
'71 Wolseley 1300
'74 Austin 1300 Countryman
'94 XJ6 Sport 3.2
'04 Rover 75 CDTi

the mark 3 cars (post 71/72) seem to have pod joints - at least our 74 Austin does, but these are thin on the ground in Oz, I think I'd have to bring them in from NZ which would cost a fortune unless any of our Kiwi members are heading over with hand lugage room - hint hint

_________________
'62 Morris 850 (Marion)
'65 Mini Delux - sleeper 1275/S discs (Ms Plum)
'69 Vanden Plas Princess 1300
'71 Wolseley 1300
'74 Austin 1300 Countryman
'94 XJ6 Sport 3.2
'04 Rover 75 CDTi

Yes you have a rodchange box there.
If using rubber unis the bush in the side cover is same as your 1100, so leave them, but you need the 2 diff output shafts and drive yokes off your 1100 box or another.
The reason to keep the RH side cover on a rodchange box is it has an ear that retains the main selector detent spring.

I'd replace both the side cover seals, and the bushes too if worn.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thanks guys for your input

I think i'm going to try and find some pot joint drive shafts if possible, if not I'll strip the bits off the old diff and convert as per the info provided

_________________
'62 Morris 850 (Marion)
'65 Mini Delux - sleeper 1275/S discs (Ms Plum)
'69 Vanden Plas Princess 1300
'71 Wolseley 1300
'74 Austin 1300 Countryman
'94 XJ6 Sport 3.2
'04 Rover 75 CDTi