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Mick
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 4:03 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
G'day All,

I'm toying with the idea of pulling the CV's apart on the resto and replacing the balls as I believe this is the only part they replace if the cage isn't damaged from what I pick up.

I realise how cheap they are to replace these days, but thought it might introduce some colour into their refurbishment.

Any thoughts?

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 4:40 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Contrary to popular belief it's the splines that get worn on S CVs, not so much the balls and tracks.
People let the big driveshaft nut get loose, then the drive flange walks around on the spline and shags that, and itself.
Try the drive flanges for fit on a new CV, and compare... you will probably find the drive flanges are toasted too. More $$$

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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Mick
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 5:28 pm 
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Ok, so does that mean it is possible to statically test a CV for it's condition? I had always thought the only proof was in their use?

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 5:52 pm 
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Yes.
My S C/Vs on HaHa have about 1mm slack at driveshaft periphery, and have done around 130,000 miles. They still don't clunk at full lock. :D I find that is usually an indication of either hard grease or lack of it.
It's been 70,000 miles since I repacked them too. maybe about time I did again.... and the wheel bearings. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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Mick
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 6:14 pm 
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Yeah I am doing that at the present, the calipers are done, I've blasted the muck and crap off the hubs back to bare metal, cleaned out the ball joint sockets and reassembled. Just waiting on some bearings and flanges and I'll do some reassembly. I might take the CV's and have a look.

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