Basic question probably.

Scenario. 1970 panel van. Standard drums. Converting to 7.5" Cooper S brakes with no booster (probably no booster, I love how my unboosted 8.4" discs feel at my foot on the LS).

I will be putting in a new master cylinder no matter what, but is there a difference between disc and drum master cylinders?

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nah... not if it's a new MC

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I have the Oz-style large circular plastic reservoir type master on my K, which I recently converted from drums to discs. I was expecting to have to change the MC, but it turns out that type is 0.7" diameter and is already suitable.

I believe if the non-return valve was operational it'd need to be removed, but it was stuffed anyway so I got away without touching it

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

If running with no servo, the 0.7" bore is the one to use.
Even a Deluxe tin tank one would do, but you need to add some fluid volume to let it drop as pads wear. Those plastic extensions work good- but need an O-ring so they seal.

<edit> the new plastic reservoir ones are good, you can see fluid level.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'll be buying a new plastic tank one.

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I put one of the new clutch ones on mine (its a new plastic one) and its great... can see fluid level and the cap screws on nice and tight.

I used the extensions on my tin ones and snapped off the thread I didnt use the rubber O ring and it leaked... if you get the extensions they are good, just make sure you use the O ring as Doc says.

Pete

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!