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Moving clutch take up.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=43929		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  mikejnr [ Wed Jul 16, 2008 4:20 pm ]
Post subject:  Moving clutch take up.
Hey guys,
I have just bleed my clutch in, it disengages the clutch fine but i would like to move take point as it is just above the floor. Is it possible to move this point further up the travel range? The hydraulic cylinder on the engine is pretty old and the same with the MC. im not sure if these are contributing to the issue or not.
Author:  1018cc [ Wed Jul 16, 2008 4:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
So I take it you have adjusted the clearances correctly on the clutch? e.g. the adjustable stop and the locking nut on the end of the lever (can't think of the name but it goes through an connects onto the throwout bearing)?
Author:  mikejnr [ Wed Jul 16, 2008 4:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
The clutch is fully adjusted to the proper clearance's. The thing is i push the pedal and it only moves the throw arm when the pedal is about half way down. So the first half of the travel is not doing anything..
Author:  1018cc [ Wed Jul 16, 2008 4:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
Righto then.

Is the lever arm still straight? Usually when you look under the bonnet of most mini's the clutch lever will be bent - I'm guessing yours is still straight. You will need to put a bit of a bend in it to take up the wear in the ball on the end of the lever. If yours is already bent I would probably replace it.

That's my 2c anyway.
Author:  1018cc [ Wed Jul 16, 2008 5:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
Mate, just did some searching - this is what I think is happening to you.
Author:  mikejnr [ Wed Jul 16, 2008 5:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
yeah that sounds exactly like it.

thanks 1018cc
Author:  simon k [ Wed Jul 16, 2008 6:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
don't bend the arm..... just screw that 1/4" bolt out a couple of turns

bloody arm benders
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Wed Jul 16, 2008 6:42 pm ]
Post subject: 
The problem with most Mini clutches is everything is worn out.
The way the lever works every mm of slack is multiplied by about five or six by the time it reaches the clutch slave and the difference between the slave and the master cylinders multiplies it again.

The worst spot for wear is where the ball on the lever goes into the bearing carrier. A new lever will take out most of the slack but replacing the lever and the bearing carrier will improve things greatly.
Then there is the clevis pin on the other end of the lever.
Then the clevis pin and fork under the master cylinder.

Bending the arm only hides the problem (and creates new ones)
Fitting the Gulson spring also only hides the problem.

Replace all the worn parts and your clutch will be as good as new. :wink:
Author:  1018cc [ Thu Jul 17, 2008 8:24 am ]
Post subject: 
simon k wrote:
bloody arm benders


Looks like I just must be a dodgy bastard then :lol: :lol: :lol:
Author:  Wombat [ Thu Jul 17, 2008 9:53 am ]
Post subject: 
and the other point of wear is the hole in the U shaped attachment point at the bottom of the extention from the piston (where the clevis pin goes through) Mine had gone oval so they were about 50% longer than wide. If that has happened it's M/C out and weld up the hole and redrill it.
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