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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 10:28 pm 
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I'm Bert , where's Ernie
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need to get at bolts holding the big ends in, theyre turned just far enough down that i cant get a socket to them, just wondering how i go about turning the crankshaft (no sump on it, no head, stripping it out) to be able to get at them. Already removed the caps.

also the crackshaft pulley bolt, how in hell do i move that, had a shifter and a hammer trying to go at it, couldnt make it budge

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 10:29 pm 
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1275cc
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is it upside down?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 10:31 pm 
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1275cc
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you probly should have undid the front crank bolt a bit before you pulled it to bits.

If you have undone the bearing caps just pull the crank out of the block a bit buy tapping the pistons down into the bores.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 10:39 pm 
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I'm Bert , where's Ernie
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yep, sure is flipped.

yeah, bearing caps are out, cept the one closest to the fan, thats pretty stuck, didnt wanna try and force it if i needed to take the bolt out before hand, theres some rubber between it and the side of the block, this being my first ever rebuild, didnt wanna force anything unless i need that part later on haha.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 10:53 pm 
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To turn the crank, get a big screwdriver and put the tip of it across the slot in the clutch end of the crank, it should move easily.
To get the front bearing cap (the one with the rubber seal over it) using the big screwdriver again to apply some force to the crank away from the block, once it starts to move ease off and some gentle hammer application and pulling by hand should get it. Probably just sticky on the dowells.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:31 am 
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Tombo wrote:
To turn the crank, get a big screwdriver and put the tip of it across the slot in the clutch end of the crank, it should move easily.


ditto...

Tombo wrote:
To get the front bearing cap (the one with the rubber seal over it) using the big screwdriver again to apply some force to the crank away from the block, once it starts to move ease off and some gentle hammer application and pulling by hand should get it. Probably just sticky on the dowells.


I tend to gently tap the side of the caps before trying to lever them up, a few light taps on each side and they usually lift up, then flick the rest of the way with a screwdriver


Drifter - don't remove the rod bolts from the rods unless you plan to replace them with newies - you're best off leaving them in the hole they're used to, and you don't risk damaging their threads

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:38 am 
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minidrifter wrote:
also the crackshaft pulley bolt, how in hell do i move that, had a shifter and a hammer trying to go at it, couldnt make it budge


do yourself a favour and go buy a 1 5/16" socket - you'll need it anyway, and buy a 1 1/2" socket too.

You should be able to undo the pulley nut with a helper holding a screwdriver across the tail of the crank - it's torqued to 70lb/ft, so isn't super tight, but definitely not loose

If you can't undo it that way, put the flywheel housing back on the motor (it's 4 bolts - get over it) and sit the flywheel back on with the flywheel bolt finger tight. Get one of your old main bearings and use it to lock the flywheel from turning - put the bearing between some teeth, through the starter motor hole

keep a couple of your old main bearings for the same purpose - they're the best flywheel locking tool you can get for free ;)

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:59 am 
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To stop the rotation of the crank all you need to do is put a block of wood down between the side of the block and the web of the crank. A decent sized hammer handle usually does the trick. Then just turn the crank until it touches the wood and it will stop it turning.

I agree the big sockets are worth buying. Don't use them very often but when you need them they save you a lot of time spent cursing and swearing.

Pete


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 10:01 am 
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peterw wrote:
To stop the rotation of the crank all you need to do is put a block of wood down between the side of the block and the web of the crank. A decent sized hammer handle usually does the trick. Then just turn the crank until it touches the wood and it will stop it turning.


that's a better idea! :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 10:12 am 
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peterw wrote:
I agree the big sockets are worth buying. Don't use them very often but when you need them they save you a lot of time spent cursing and swearing.


There is no substitute for having the correct tool for the job.. makes even the difficult jobs a pleasure 8)

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 10:55 am 
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minidrifter wrote:
had a shifter and a hammer trying to go at it


Sounds like you stole my mates tool kit :lol:

DOZ

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 3:50 pm 
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I'm Bert , where's Ernie
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well, after todays efforts, ive ended up with a smashed pinky (yes i hit it with the hammer) and ive snapped two of my screwdrivers, and still havent progressed, the last big end is still stuck, and the crackshaft pulley bolt is still on there, will give it another go maybe on friday after i can find some more screwdrivers.

by the way simon, when i bought it, it had no gearbox, or clutch or flywheel etc etc. Which slot were you guys talking about on the end of the crank? the big one on the very end with the hole in the middle of it? Where do you find screwdrivers that big?!

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 4:46 pm 
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I'm Bert , where's Ernie
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
gotta laugh or else i'll cry, dont ask me how i did it, but i smacked my big toe, i think it was in the order of

get correct size socket,
put it on and attach breaker bar,
strain until i realise im too bloody weak,
break out the hammer again
smack breaker bar with the hammer,
realise too late that the hammer bounced off the bar and hit me in the foot,
THEN, to make it all worse,
the socket fell off when i let it go and it smacked me in the same foot, in the same place,

just went and sat down in the corner and had a giggle with a can of coke.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 4:56 pm 
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simon k wrote:
peterw wrote:
To stop the rotation of the crank all you need to do is put a block of wood down between the side of the block and the web of the crank. A decent sized hammer handle usually does the trick. Then just turn the crank until it touches the wood and it will stop it turning.


that's a better idea! :lol:


Its in the workshop manual!!!

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 4:58 pm 
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minidrifter wrote:
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
gotta laugh or else i'll cry, dont ask me how i did it, but i smacked my big toe, i think it was in the order of

get correct size socket,
put it on and attach breaker bar,
strain until i realise im too bloody weak,
break out the hammer again
smack breaker bar with the hammer,
realise too late that the hammer bounced off the bar and hit me in the foot,
THEN, to make it all worse,
the socket fell off when i let it go and it smacked me in the same foot, in the same place,

just went and sat down in the corner and had a giggle with a can of coke.



ahhh Robbie, you are like a miniature BIAM :lol: :lol:

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