Ive searched through the junk box in an endeavour to come up with 2 good Hardy Spicer universal joints. All of them show some wear in the hole where the uni joint cup sits and is held by the retaining clip . The sad part is the part that has the splined end are fine but the part that bolts to the diff output shaft has some wear in one or more lof the holes There is no slop - they are a hand press sliding fit.

Is there any way of making these now quite rare bits servicable? I was thinking of locktite 609 but I figure this wont work or I will never get them out again. Is peening around the outside casting successful? Maybe even punching the bearing surface to raise bits of the surface?

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Mk1 Cooper S
Mini K Rally car

I would try the Loctite 609. Worked for me a while back. To get them back out, warm the yoke up with a hot air gun.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have repaired many Hardy spicer unis over the years as they all have the same problem, the hole gets too big and the uni ends "spin" in the casting.

Using a mig welder we would run a nice clean bead of weld around the top edge of the casting, this tightens up the hole as it cools down. You can then grind the weld back (with a linisher) smooth and shape it so you can't ever tell it was welded. works every time.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

crisonic,
Loctite is your best option in my opinion. It is modern technoligy and it works very very well.
The welding method has been used for many years and is a very bad idea......
It will no doubt make the cup tight in the hole, it will also without doubt make the hole OUT OF ROUND!
Pushing a cup into an out of round hole will deform the cup!!!!
This will lead to a universal joint that does not move freely and will have a shortened life span.
Loctite is your simplest and best option.

Dave

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Has there ever been reconditioning to such parts, like machining the housing, pressing in a sleeve then machine to size?

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

If the yoke is only just worn where the cup slides neatly in, then loctite would be OK. Any more than that, I weld them as per 850man and ream them, using a pilot, back to original size / shape.

Thanks to you all for the replies .
At least I know they are not a binable item
Will try loctite first. If that fails then welding

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Mk1 Cooper S
Mini K Rally car