Have a set of 7.5" discs to go on the Clubby, also have a booster (VH44?). What master cylinder do i need, will the original drum one be ok or do i need to change it. Booster or no booster? Never ran one on my old rally cars, but never got around to fitting one to see the difference.
General consensus?

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Cheers
PeterN
3x Leylands
1x 850
Mildura,
Victoria.

std master is fine,,, i don`t use boosters & nor do any of my mates now days,,, they don`t make the brakes work any better,,, it`s more a "feel" thing as the booster only relieves peddle pressure

you may need to use the "S" rear brake limit valve tho,,, depending on your rear wheel cyl sizes & the condition of the rear brakes,,, if everything was std mini issue in the rear then "Usually" the rear brakes will lock up under hard braking conditions , or in the wet/dirt when "S" discs are fitted to the front

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

If you are tempted to keep the old rear wheel cylinders with discs fitted, I'd go try it out on a dirt road somewhere to be sure, not on the F3 at 110K in an emergency stop, like I did.. oops, plenty sideways!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just standard rear drums, can you mod the original rear valve to adjustable, the car will be seeing a lot of dirt competition.

_________________
Cheers
PeterN
3x Leylands
1x 850
Mildura,
Victoria.

yes,,, but best to "try" & find a seal kit for it before you do this, but anyways--->

rip it apart, drill a hole into the back of it,,, tap a thread into it,,, shorten the spring a coil or 2,,, fit the new seal kit ,,, but before setting the spring & piston assy back in it`s place, fit a one-cent piece (or flat washer of similar size) for your new adjusting bolt to work against it,,, then fit the guts back in,,, wind your new bolt in with a lock nut added to it (i usually weld a lever onto both the bolt & another lever to the lock nut so you now have 2 separate handles/levers ,,, one to unlock the lock nut & the other to adjust the bolt) then i normally fit an o-ring on in-front of the lock nut (between the lock-nut & the body of the valve) as a "Just in case" it leaks type of thing

Job done & no you can start playing with your adjustment

softer spring equals less pressure to the rear brakes

stiffer spring means more pressure to the rear brakes

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.