Sometime ago Gafmo posted a list of all the nuts and bolts in the engine - can't find it and can't remember if it included front suspension.

I want to use nylock nuts on the front suspension so need the sizes for ball joints, steering arm and tie rod.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Be careful with Nyloc nuts, many/most now are only grade 4 chinese rubbish steel. Original nuts were all grade 5 or grade 8, hi-tensile.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Is this it? - http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=35342

P.S. I've made great use of the following method to search Ausmini archives since the normal search has had its wings clipped.

In the Google search box type site:ausmini.com followed by whatever search terms you like. To find the above thread I used Gafmo bolt nut. You'll see there's a few other related threads that might be of interest.

This one had a list by harley but the image seems to have been deleted. Is harley still on here?

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=687861

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

In case it helps the following are the part numbers from the Mini Series parts catalogue PUB1056M (1969/70). If you search using Google you will get some hits from the usual Mini parts suppliers and these give brief specifications. Note that the Mini Spares tie rod end has a Nyloc nut. I wonder if these are good quality or el cheapo as Doc hinted?

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... .aspx|Back to

Ball joints - FNZ 507
Tie Rod outer end - LNZ 207
Tie rod inner bolt - FNZ 505
Upper support arm shaft - FNZ 508
Lowewr wishbone are shaft - FNZ 506
Steering rack ball socket - 53K 1663
Steering rack u bolts - MYH 319

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Further to the above here is a document that details the specification of various fasteners used by BMC. You'll see there's a system in the naming convention. FN for hexagon nuts, LN for lock nuts, WN for wing nuts, N for plain, Z for zinc, P for chrome plated, and the numbers indicate the tensile strength and diameter. Hope this helps.

http://mk1-performance-conversions.co.u ... teners.pdf

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Thanks Winnabbey - thats the list - but doesn't have the suspension nuts

And as you say Harleys Pic is missing - oh well keep looking

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

I'll find it later.............

Doesn't the list of part numbers and the Fastener's publication that I posted above give you what you are after?

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

I bought this kit a couple of years back, mini in a box - pretty much every nut and bolt required to rebuild your car from scratch. Imperial and metric have used the nuts and bolts for multitudes of things not just mini related.

http://www.aseriesspares.co.uk/classic- ... _1027.html

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1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S

Sorry yes it does didn't realise you had listed the part numbers from Minispares for the nuts - thought they were the actual ball joint etc - my bad

Thanks heaps that's great

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Wombat - just to clarify, those nut part numbers I posted are straight from the Australian Mini parts catalogue, not the Mini Spares website. I only posted the link to Mini Spares to expand the topic.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Thats OK - a while since I trolled the MS site - see they now have the exploded parts diagram under the item to click on - good move

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

if you're concerned about the nuts coming loose, i highly recommend using Loctite, specifically 2 types of it, 243 is a thread locker designed for you to put some on prior to assembling, easy to undo if you need to, but wont come loose through use, and i forget the number but it is a Wick in Loctite, this is used when you have already assembled the parts, apply a little bit to the thread and it will work its way in and lock the nut (i used this on the clutch adjustment, goes against gravity as well). nyloc nuts are ok but need to be replaced every time and as mentioned the quality these days isnt great and i highly recommend scraping all spring washers as they dont work, instead use a normal washer and loctite.