appears to be going well so far, I am going to machine an 1100 head for my 998.
how much can I remove do you think, is 60 thou too much?
I sent a pm but think it is lost in cyberspace?

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It's easy once you know how.

I've been out this morning,
PM now sent.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Stealth box is now working fine with the 43D dizzy + Powerspark module.
It's a little harder to start because I reduced static timing from 20deg on the Pulsar to zero on this one. But once it fires it's fine.
Tomorrow I will advance the dizzy 10deg mechanically, so zero = 10deg. This will move the map 10 deg >> I will then knock 10deg off all the other points on the map.
This will also reduce the amount of sparking ahead of the rotor needed as it advances.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So the advancing of the module doesn't work during turnover.

Yes I think it does but I still have the default 1st point (400rpm synch speed) set at zero.
Next point, 1500rpm is set at 20. The Pulsar was 24. It feels like it needs the extra 4deg so I'll fix that.

I did not have data for the Pulsar below 1500 because that's what it idled at, but its static was about 20.

The concern I have is that the rotor is presently fixed to fire without the box in circuit at TDC. So at zero deg set, that's what it has. And the rotor doesn't advance with the spark, as it is now fixed to the lower shaft.
Add 38 degrees total advance and sparks will arc off the rotor to the plug wire's lug at a 19deg angle. That will be a BIG air gap to jump.
But, if I crank 10 degrees of static advance into the dizzy, that will reduce the arc angle to 15deg.
Really, these things should come with a 25D4? style curved rotor... maybe I should design one and get it made in PRC..

[edit] Here's that screenshot again- I will post another once sorted." width="1024" height="768"

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Doc,
you have your dwell set too high at the lower revs... this will be overcharging your coil and just causing heat.. Also you can give more dwell at higher RPM... its one of the great features of the Black Box...
Here are some figures to play with...

Just working on the Dwell graphs and knowing that a typical GT40 coil charge time is around that 7 ms......

RPM........Distributor RPM.........RPSec......... Each Rev........... time For 4 cyl (90 degrees)
1000.........500..........................8.33.........120mS...................30mS
2000.........1000...........................................60...................... 15
3000.........1500..........................25............. 40.......................10
4000..........2000...........................................30.....................7.5
5000.........2500.........................41.67...........24...................... 6
6000..........3000............................................20......................5
7000..........3500...........................................17......................4.2
8000..........4000............................................15.................... 3.8

90 degrees = 100% (ED.. I note that your dwell is in degrees. I must have the old software as mine is in %ages)
Rules as per the instructions. Not less that 25%. Not more than 75%

RPM For 4 cyl (90 degrees) % on graph Coil charge time achieved (Optimal 7mS)
1000................30mS ................25%(min)............................7.5mS
2000................15.....................47%.....................................7mS
3000................10.....................70%.....................................7mS
4000................7.5....................75%(max).............................5.6mS
5000................6...................... 75%(max)............................4.5mS
6000................5 ......................75%(max)............................3.75
7000................4.2.....................75%(max).............................3.15
8000................3.8.....................75%(max).............................2.85

These numbers are from Accuspark.....

Sports Coil 7mS to draw peek 2.5-3amps
5mS will draw just over 2 amps which is over an 80% total charge. (remembering the coil charges fast initially. see graph)


dwell % Revs Charge time mS
10.............500.............7
.................1000.............5

20.............1000.............7
.................1500.............5

30.............1500.............7
.................2000.............5

40.............2000............. 7
.................2500.............5

50.............2500.............7
.................3000.............5

60.............3000.............7
.................3500.............5

70.............3500.............7
.................4000.............5

Interesting note... Mini points dwell is usually set at 58 - 60 degrees
(~66%) or optimized around that 2700 rpm where a mini engine would spend most of its time.

_________________
You can take the boy out of the racer.........but not the racer out of the boy!

I found my cars ran better when timed by ear. Advance them until just before they start to ping. Never played around with dwell.

@Minimad,
Thanks for that, I realise it's too high, but I just wanted to get it started.
I will play with it as I sort the curve out.
From 2500 on now it feels the same as the Pulsar does. Bottom of Stealth curve needs more advance.

@gtogreen1969, yes you are right, it is close to pinging @ around 2500, but otherwise the Pulsar's numbers are close.
The max advance 38deg was determined one day on Greig's dyno when GR and I had a play. It was 40deg before, was just too much.
The head is bathtubbed, that's why it needs so much advance.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Are you expecting better economy and more usable power low to mid range.

The box will measure the first pulse to the second and determine the timing from there. Operating at a few megahertz (maybe 2 megahertz), the time it has to calculate this is gargantuan for a micro controller ( 120,000 operations per revolution@1000 RPM).

I keep mine at zero advance below 500 rpm only for turnover (in the depths of winter) to prevent kick back with a high energy coil from wrecking the bendix. I'm sure it can handle more advance, but it doesn't bother my start as it rockets past 500 RPM and into normal advance immediately as it fires up.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I'm not worried about wrecking the bendix any more (I've killed a few in the past) because I'm now running a Bosch planetary geared starter and a 640CCA battery. Spins the 1360 like a top even when cold.

Before I move the dizzy though I'll give it 20 degrees static like the Pulsar has, to duplicate its bottom end advance.

Objective of this black magic exercise is to get as much midrange as I can. It's almost a race cam, with 1.5 rockers so I'm not expecting wonders down the bottom end. It pulls away smooth from 40 kmh in 4th gear now with the Pulsar dizzy, at light throttle.
The Pulsar advance curve I have is bloody close to what it needs considering its minor mods, but this black box will make it easy to get perfect.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Mick with the refurb to the dizzyshaft did you notice any improvement to idle... less hunting? and Doc how long has your belt been in and giving good timing service?

I've had a belt drive kit (original Triger one) for 20+ years.

Belts are supposedly good for 20,000 miles but I did 40,000 miles on the original Pirelli belt. I still have it in the drawer and it looks new.
I currently am running a MiniMania Kevlar comp belt, supposed to be OK for 50,000 miles. It's a club car now so I'll never wear it out.
http://www.minimania.com/part/C-AJJ3328 ... evlar-Race
These belts are made in Japan by Gates, for Mini Mania. Gates out here have no record of this belt...

I tried fitting a current `made in China' belt, it was loose so I sent it back. I know what damage stripped belts do, as I used to be a Fiat 124AC owner.
Minispares were selling Dayco/Pirelli belts last year but they have dried up.
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/E ... o%20search

There is a BD kit available now from UK that has an idler in it to tension the belt, the Chinese belts would work OK with them. Not sure who makes them, ask Graham Russell.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yes, outright. The beat is more consistent, less drumming and easier to deal with when it is bitterly (Canberra) cold.
Same as a rebuilt (or new) dizzy with traditional weights would, not something I can blame totally on the blackbox.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Minimad,
From p2 of this thread, Mick found that the [dwell + advance] must not exceed 90.
If I use your 75 figure for dwell I won't get to 38deg advance. 50 dwell is as far as I can go, really.
As dwell is in degrees.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.