Hi, I have a hairbrained idea!
I have this issue with poor acceleration after corners etc.
new coil, leads, plugs and dizzy
my idea is to fit another gasket under the float lid, anyone done this before?
i have no further adjustment with washers.
my plugs are black on the outer and tan colour on the insulator

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It's easy once you know how.

What's your engine?

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

998, std I think apart from oversized bores.
extractors and sport muffler.
minispares heated manifold, not heated yet.
rebuilt 1 1/2 SU with pancake filter.
pulsar dizzy gt 40 and resistor plugs @ 28 thou gap. inductive core leads. (all new)

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It's easy once you know how.

Is the problem after turning left, turning right, or both?

And what needle is in it?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

One gasket won't be enough. Sounds like your level is down by about 1/4 inch. A std 998 doesn't drink too much.

Needle appeared to be std, am thinking may need to remove and check for straitness.
also is a bit of a slug at low rpm, under 2000
should all the plug be the same colour, my tuning skills only go as far as rotary and reed valve kart engines.
wish I had one of those 50mm tryton slide carbs now.

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It's easy once you know how.

I'd find an early float you can adjust, these new nylon ones are rubbish. An SU deserves better...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

have forgotten to mention when the engine is running poor if I pull the chocke it goes better, sounds like is running lean?

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It's easy once you know how.

Sounds like you have a needle in which is too lean. This means you can set idle mixture OK as they are all much the same at that step. But the needle hasn't enough taper, so when you gun it, it goes lean. Classic result from fitting a Ramflo filter and a standard needle.

Pull the needle out and read the code off the top part, tell us what it is.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

appears to have a number 1 stamped on it.
is approx 8mm shorter than a std one.

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It's easy once you know how.

new hairbrained idea, have fitted the old damper with std needle?
one is fixed other is spring loaded

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It's easy once you know how.

Standard needle in a 998 Mini S was an ABX according to my Leyland black book.
Or possibly an ADF (the book is a bit ambiguous here)
Both are leaner down low and richer up high than a #1 is. But if running a Ramflo filter you probably want it richer still.

I would suggest a #7 or a CP4. I have one of each here if you want them..
Put all these numbers into http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/ and you can compare them.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm having the same leaning out issuse at half throttle. Anytime I come to a hill I have to floor it up it cos at half the car looses so much power it's fine at idle and ok flat out but better with the choke out... Plugs are a nice color... What's everyone's recommendations for a new needle ??

Current needle ADF

Stock 1275 a+ HS4 heated manifold with ramflo..

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64' 850 1275cc

have you tried the comparison type chart the Doc mentioned in the previous thread?
should help.

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It's easy once you know how.

There are now something like 700?! different SU needles.
The examples I gave are just some that I have. To really know you have the right one requires an air/fuel ratio meter and maybe a dyno- or go for a drive with the A/F meter and put it under full load through the rev range.

Personally, I prefer carbies with jets in `em, not needles... which is why I run a 45 Dellorto. But I'm olde, hence olde skool...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.