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 Post subject: Help removing cone/donut
PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 5:15 pm 
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848cc
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Im trying to get the cone compression tool down the top to screw in and it doesnt seem to want to grab on anything. All i can see in is these 2 photos but i have no idea how it should look? Could someone please give me a idea if this is right?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 5:38 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: san remo nsw
Sometimes the hole/thread can get really ugly, so much that it can be so full of rust and sh*t that a thread tap is required. this presents problem number 2, get a tap down there. You'll need to braze one onto a bit of rod with T on top.
Might sound a bit rough, but usually when they're this bad the cone is stuffed too, I get stuck into cone/trumpet with an air chisle then bin the whole lot. Are you fitting hi lo's or something?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 6:10 pm 
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848cc
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yeah gonna fit hilos and new cones.
I havent got a air chisel lol.. ill have to work something out tomorrow
thanks peter


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 6:24 pm 
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They should just drop out the bottom with the trumpet still stuck to it thats what happen with me

I only needed to compress the cone when i put the new ones in


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 6:28 pm 
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If you have no air chisel an angle grinder will do. :twisted:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 7:41 pm 
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848cc
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I got one of them.
Thanks kevin..
And thanks for earlier too


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 7:55 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: san remo nsw
try a long punch and hit cone about 50mm up from bottom of alloy section.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 8:07 pm 
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848cc
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I did mine recently and only needed the compressor when fitting in new cones.

Remove that square rubber stop for some space as top arm has to come out - check condition of pin and bearings. Lever pin from front. Change the knuckle joint too if needed.

Other than cone compressor, you may need a ball joint splitter.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 8:37 pm 
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Fishyoil wrote:
I did mine recently and only needed the compressor when fitting in new cones.

Remove that square rubber stop for some space as top arm has to come out - check condition of pin and bearings. Lever pin from front. Change the knuckle joint too if needed.

Other than cone compressor, you may need a ball joint splitter.


If you want to replace the top bearings, they are a bugger to remove. But I have a new puller that works, bring em over.
If the top shafts are not worn, keep them. Their material & hardness is way better than the aftermarket ones being sold now.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 9:12 pm 
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Both pins/shafts and bearings were good doc.

Just to clarify stib, top arms gotta come out for new stuff to go in.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 9:24 pm 
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Fishyoil wrote:
Both pins/shafts and bearings were good doc.

Just to clarify stib, top arms gotta come out for new stuff to go in.


Sorry Fishy, I was aiming that post at iamstib. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 9:35 pm 
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848cc
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Once i get them out ill send you a photo kev and u can tell me what u think cuz ill prob have no idea lol.
Thanks for the help gents.


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