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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:35 am 
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I've removed the layshaft, both main shaft bolts and the circlip, but am unsure how to remove the motion bearings so that I can remove the main shaft. What's the trick?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 1:29 pm 
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The outrigger bearing or the big ones in the gearbox?
I use a small puller for the out rigger and a slightly bent brass drift to knock the other ones out.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 2:17 pm 
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Brian - in case you haven't seen them there's a few threads in the How To section on gearbox work, including bearing removal.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 7:41 pm 
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the workshop manual gives details...

you need to pull the 1st motion shaft out (I modified a slide hammer to work as a puller) and then you can gently drift the main shaft to push the double row bearing out (pieces of split exhaust pipe between 1st gear and the bearing). Once that's out the mainshaft will come out easily if you hold your tongue right

expect the synchro hub ball bearings to go flying

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 1:09 pm 
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Another option, not tried it but may be worth a go. This is a US site so guessing they mean 300 degrees Fahrenheit or 148 degrees C, not 100% sure through.

http://www.minimania.com/part/AAU8424/B ... ini-Cooper

"An easy way to remove the old race is to clean the housing very well, remove the circlip, and place the whole housing in the oven at 300 degrees for 10 minutes. Upon removal, slam the housing, engine side down, onto a flat piece of wood and the race should fall out. This is also a good time to install the new outer race. You can freeze the new race to make it that much easier."

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 1:36 pm 
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Thanks for the reply guys. And yes Winabbey, I have certainly bookmarked and read your awesome transmission build scans. I must've skimmed over the quick word about removal, and it still doesn't sit too well with me. ("...once you've knocked out the 1st motion shaft bearing with a drift...")

So, using this diagram for clarity (as it has nice numbers pinned all over it).. http://www.miniclassics.co.uk/mg/pages/info1.htm

The "First Motion Shaft" is the piece labeled #1 & #2. I can't see any way you might get a drift in between the trans case and the bearing, but maybe I am missing something.
The other thread shows a piece of square steel with a slot cut in it, but I am missing something here as well. The bearing is in the case, with a shaft coming through it. How would I "slip this over the bearing". And even if I did, winding in that bolt (from the photo) would only push the first motion shaft further inwards. Perhaps the bolt is there for illustration only? And the welded bolt is the correct size to thread onto the first motion shaft?

So far the only suggestion that seems to make sense is Simon's. It sounds like I put the bolt back onto the first motion shaft, attach a slide hammer, and start drifting out the bearing. This sounds to me like a lot of force and potential damage to the first motion shaft. But if that's the way to go..... Just say the word and I'll start slide hammering away.

Sorry for the ignorance, I don't know why I'm having such a hard time wrapping my head around this one.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 2:01 pm 
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Since 1965, I have just undone the big 1st motion bearing circlip, then with the pinion nut off and the 1-2 and 3-4 detent spring plugs removed (non rodchange boxes), you can use a brass drift on the mainshaft end to drift the 1st motion shaft & bearings out. The big bearing is not a very tight fit in the case.

ps @Simon K, you don't lose yer synchro balls if done this way, carefully! 8)

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 2:13 pm 
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Doc, you're saying actually drift the entire mainshaft - as in - place the drift against the slotted end where the speedo gear would go, and whack away?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 2:44 pm 
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Yes that is correct. It moves easily. I have never had to warm the case up.
It doesn't hurt the mainshaft nose needle bearing, either.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 2:59 pm 
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http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/to ... with-pics/

This might help

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 2:59 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Yes that is correct. It moves easily. I have never had to warm the case up.
It doesn't hurt the mainshaft nose needle bearing, either.


I like this method the most. I'll let everyone know how my non-trained non-doc hands work it out. ;)

Thanks everyone.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 3:05 pm 
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simo74 wrote:
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/220513-mini-gearbox-strip-down-with-pics/

This might help


That's a good one too! Didn't find it in my searching. I'm very curious to go home and look at my gearbox, the way he has the drift against the first motion bearing looks too easy! I swear I don't have that kind of clearance in my case.... I hope I'm wrong. I'll see if I can drift it out from just the one spot (drifting on only one side tends to put it at an angle and wedge it in worse?). If that doesn't work, Doc's method is the go.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 3:33 pm 
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I don't like that method, you can cock the bearing- whereas my one pushes it straight.
That notch in the case is to let the mainshaft clear it during assembly, not to bung a pin punch into.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 3:38 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
I don't like that method, you can cock the bearing- whereas my one pushes it straight.
That notch in the case is to let the mainshaft clear it during assembly, not to bung a pin punch into.


My thoughts exactly. Thanks Doc.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 8:53 am 
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Well, Docs method worked beautifully. It didn't take mush force at all to drift the first motion shaft out, and then after sliding the selector hub over I was able to get a punch in on the top of the double row bearing, and on the bottom of the bearing via the diff housing hole. It also came out without much force.

From there I was able to completely disassemble and clean the lot! Next week I'll be tearing down the diff, and then all the big parts go off for hot tanking. This is the most fun you can have without boobies.

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