Just wanting to know how to tell the difference between hydrolastic and rubber cone upper control arms?
Thanks,
Steve

try a 3/8 bolt through the horizontal hole. If it fits it is dry, if hole too small it is definitely hydro.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for that

Another difference is the distance between the pivot shaft bore and the centre of the strut ball socket centre. The hydro arm distance is 1/8" longer than a dry arm.
IE: the dry strut is 1/8"closer to the pivot shaft.
If you use a hydro arm with dry suspension it makes the front suspension a little stiffer.

RonR

Edit: Changed shorter to longer and hydro to dry.
I realised my error when I woke at about 3am this morning.
I am claiming a senior moment/case of brain fade or any other excuse you are prepared to accept.

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68 build Mk1 Cooper S
72 Clubman GT project. Total restoration required

Wouldn't it be softer with the higher leverage?

There is a bit of info here. http://www.minispares.com/article/MiniT ... suspension and http://www.mokeforum.com.au/index.php?topic=7678.0

awesome, they were definately hydro ones then

miniron,,, the hydro knuckle hole is further away from the pivot pin
the dry knuckle hole is closer to the pivot pin

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Miniman,
See my edit.
I am suitable chastened.

RonR

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68 build Mk1 Cooper S
72 Clubman GT project. Total restoration required

Would a dry arm on hydro system make it softer or stiffer.

Softer, as the wheel has a greater moment arm to work with to the displacer.

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !