Hi Guys,

Anyone have the specs on the diameter hose required for repairing the diplacers? I'm not worried about originality, just serviceability. Thanks

I have repaired 4 hydro bags now.
Hose I use is Pirtek MPH-06, it is 3/8" bore. WP rating 500PSI.
I used original 5/8 UNF top hose ends and had Pirtek crimp a 3/8 BSP one to the bottom. They used a brass crimp on the top (not shown). Ignore that yellow ring push on fitting, it was for testing of the 1st one I did.
Brass fitting into the hydro bag is 1/8 BSP x 3/8 BSP.

Edit I would have used new 5/8 UNF hydraulic hose fittings, but I searched the web and they seem to be unobtainium.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Question: For the brass fitting, did you tap a 1/8"BSP thread into the stub pipe coming out of the displacer?
When Pirtek repaired mine, they sold me a JIC adaptor that grips onto the outside of the stub pipe, but I had to fit it myself because they wouldn't guarantee the repair! Yours looks a bit simpler/neater and more positive.
When I had the hose end repaired, Pirtek had to reuse the original nut and tail (5/8"UNF) as they said these were NLA.

Mind blow.

Not heeding your advice I thought I would try to track down such a fitting.

These things, if I've got this right, are 5/8 UNF - 45 degree (SAE Standard) female swivel connectors.

I think I am right when I say 5/6 - 18 is correct for UNF (18 threads per inch, whereas UNC is 11)

The problem seems to be JIC (Joint Industry Council) Fittings are almost identical, except the flare is 37 degrees instead of 45.

The only problem is I am having trouble tracking down exactly what the Hydrolastic flare is, and I don't have the tools to measure it, plus my unions look pretty ordinary cut from over tightening the lines onto them. Can anyone verify whether these are SAE or JIC? If SAE then there's bugger all about, however it's probably not that hard to convert over to either standard since I will replace the hoses.

Side Note: Have you successfully re-cut the flares on Hydroelastic unions (rear sub-frame) before?

If they're JIC then theoretically they are compatible with AN (Army/Navy) standards, which a host of products exist for since their wide distribution through the automotive racing fraternity (aeroquipe) however they do seem to sell both at any rate.

Why the bother? I don't fancy drilling and tapping a bag and I've amassed 9 of them, to get 4 good ones, if I can nail this down then I will talk to a hydraulic specialist and find out my options, I'm hoping for either a compression fitting (with a sleeve that tightens down over the hose, locking it to the barb) or a hose clamp. I have heard of people repairing hoses on displacers from morris 1100s using t-bold style hose clamps, so this might be an option too.

I cut the rusty stub off flush. Then drilled the hole 11/32" to a depth of 3/8", no more. Then tapped 1/8 BSP. These ops done in a bench drill at slow speed with the flutes packed with grease. (Edit) tapping done with spindle turned by hand.
The brass nipple is sealed with Loctite 262.
Doing it this way makes hose replacement easy.

I found some 5/8-18 unf hose ends at Amazon but the flare was straight not reverse.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I got some information from http://elf-hornet.4forum.biz/t1303-hydr ... o-dry-cone

That discussion says that 5/8"-18 SAE has a 30 degree taper, not 45 degrees.

The parts I bought from Pirtek to adapt the stub pipe of the displacer were:
1. BAN-09 JIC Flared nut ($2.57)
2. BAS-06 JIC Flare Tube Sleeve ($1.96)
Then Pirtek made up a new hose with fittings to suit above parts at displacer end; the original nut and tail fittings reused at the outer end.

Might be some relevant stuff from this old thread - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=83658

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43