Is there anyone out there who has fitted NEW plastic brake and clutch master cylinders? The ones you get from Karcraft or the like.

I bought new ones and I am pretty sure I fitted then correctly. I took them from the box and matched the part number on the box to it's application.

Th eonly visible difference is the base of the cylinders. One is a slightly different shape to the other.

If anyone else has the same master cylinders fitted to their Mini, can you please confirm that yours are the same as mine pictured. Brake shown on the left, clutch on the right. The base of one is smaller than the other. I have this one on the clutch side.

Ta.

i don't have those types, but i have the new tin types. They look the same Base wise to me. So the way you have them on there is correct. The brake Base is slightly thicker than the clutch one. It should be right.

All i can sugggest is keep bleeding them. Those rear lines take forever to get air bubbles out of. Make sure your rear drums are all adjusted up.

Cheers

Aaron

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thanx mate. Maybe I am wrong in expecting to have both the clutch and brakes right after bleeding them 5 times each.

You are right...the rears took FOREVER to get right....and yea, they probably still aren't right. At least I have a way of bleeding them without having to ask the wife for help....

What about brake fluid? The guy at the spare parts place said I can mix DOT 3 and DOT 4 type fluid. I have done that, but the DOT 3 was blue colour and the DOT 4 was yellow/clear colour. Is that cool to mix them?

(that brake line looks bad in that pic.....It's not so bad in real life....but I might replace them anyway can't have old parts in JAM

Well i am dodgy and mix the brake fluids up all the time, but they always work. When i bled my brakes the other day i adjusted first and then using the long return house sat there pumping the brake pedal for 5-10 mins each wheel while i read a book. TIP, swap feet on each wheel change. I will also do mine again once the motor is in too. It can take forever, but as someone will telll you if he gets online and sees this. Get them so they work and then take it to a garage and get them to do it. I think i should have mine right enough though.

Cheers

Aaron

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I bled front passenger, then front driver, then rear passenger, then rear driver sides.....

is that right?

Do them in order of distance. rear passanger, then rear driver, then front passanger and then front driver. This may not be right, but it seems to work for me.

Cheers

Aaron

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you always start with the longest line from the master cylinder, passenger side rear then drivers side rear, nest passenger side front and last drivers side front, exactlt the opposite of what you have done, sorry

Jon

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

typical....

cheers for that....will rectify tomorrow

And, don't pump them- it will just aerate the fluid. Even worse, never tip the drained fluid back in. It takes ~24hrs for any air in it to separate out.
I PM'd you re the bleeding, etc..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i hope that is the clutch issue....

I have a power bleeder - runs off your compressor and sucks fluid into a plastic reservoir on the unit (looks a bit like a spray gun but sucks instead of blow). Means you still have to stop and refill the reservoir, but you don't have to pump. Welcome to borrow it if it's any use to you Anton.
KB

Well I had a looksee today, no air in clutch, the clutch issue seems to be the pedal height is low to start off with. Reduces the pedal stroke and clutch throwout. Clutch clevis pin in pedal is a couple of mm higher than the brake one..
???
Cause will be apparent when he pulls it back out I guess....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

KB, I might take you up on that next weekend Cheers mate.



a couple of mm can make all that difference?? I'll be a monkey's uncle if that's it!

Anton,
That's a couple of mm (maybe 3), x the pedal ratio- probably becomes 1/2 an inch pedal height...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

that much?!? far out!! There is a lesson for all I reckon!!

I have learnt sooo much during this resto....I could never stray from Mini's now will all this knowledge!