howdy - has anybody else had this problem? - my work car, 2008 cooper, driver side window is failing to return to the closed postion when closing the door. If you open the door again without having closd it maually, it drops another step and stays there, and so on. This started happening ages ago, the dealer played with it for a day, said they reset the computer or whatever, but problem returned in a few weeks. Back to the dealer, they said it needed a new window motor, they ordered one (under warranty of course), and when they went to instal it they decided it was the servo or something instead, so ordered one of these. waited for a few weeks, part comes in, they take 2 days(!) to fit it, all is good until now, just a few months later, the problem has returned.
Before I ring them and have my whinge, anybody else experienced this and what was the remedy? Sometimes I fear the dealer has NFI.
Cheers
Peter.

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)

My car does this from time to time but I have it controlled. It's an 03 model for reference.

Lets say I put the windows down, then up till they stop moving at let go of switch (as you would. When the doors open the glass drops and all is normal, glass goes up when door shuts.


Now, if the glass is already in the top position, and I press the UP button, the wondows will move a tiny fraction, however will not drop when the door is opened, and not therefore be able to up when shut. The drivers side glass only just manages to scrape in, the passengers side sits on the outside of the gutter.
I thought this was some sort of deadlock function.

So now, if on the odd chance the glass won't do its thing when shutting, I simply open door, drop glass (from switch), shut door, glass up and its all good to go again for next time as normal.

I think I understand what you're saying, but I don't have any problem with glass going down when I open the door, whether I've fully closed it manually from inside the car or not. In fact if I don't manually close once I'm in, it will still drop again when I open, meaning it's about 1" down instead of the 1/4 inch or so it needs.
So for instance when I'm leaving the car, I close the door and walk away, but the window stays in the slightly down position and doesn't seal. A PITA if it's raining! Not a drama when getting into the car cos I can manually fully close it once I'm in.
Plus, what you're doing shouldn't be necessary cos it's obviously something wrong somewhere and should be able to be fixed - we shouldn't have to put up with it and try to work around it.
I should also mention this happened on the passenger door very briefly once or twice, but is behaving itself since the "re-program".

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)

I get your issue now, can't really help.

I'm not stressed over mine. It seldomly does it and I know how to fix it.
I'm not going to BMW to let them have the car for X amount of days and not fix it.

Now, back to your issue.
What year is your car and do you have a sunroof?

Two days for the servo is crap, they clearly weren't doing anything for the first day and a half.

'08 and no.
Yeh, like I said sometimes I think they have NFI - they were guessing and stalling for time I reckon, cos they didn't know how to fix it. When I went to pick it up I could see about 3 techs standing around it trying to get it to close, supposedly after they had fitted the new part. They were getting quite, er, physical with it.
That's when they sent me home in a loan car to come back the next day

Oh well, better give them a ring and get it sorted - again. It's nearly due for 60k service anyway. (yeh, I do a lot of miles, it's my work car - 60k in 18mths ).

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)

For the record, my early '02 Cooper did the same as Harley's.. I reported it at one point, but got the usual brush-off -- "we can't repeat it, so the problem isn't there"

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

08 model!? That's interesting. I'd get onto a MINI dedicated forum and have a look, might find somemore useful information that here.

I'm no BMW technician, and (not saying this is your problem) if it was my car I'd be opening the door up, removing the internals and having a good look around for moisture.

All the switches and sensors in BMWs are microscopic little bastards, so very easily affected by dirt or moisture. I'd be looking at that because the timing matches up with winter, and the recent hot weather could be causing condensation inside the doors allowing parts ordinarily out of water paths to be susceptible.

So, the car is garaged and kept undercover during the day? What's next to look at?
Crook window sensor. Replacing the regulator is pointless, so it's probably whatever part if the system wasn't changed.

I'll keep thinking about it.
Good luck.

No.
Thanks

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)

I found some info on the mini2 forum in the UK. Seems that the window issue is a bit more common there.
The passenger door window on my 02 Cooper occasionally (5 times in 7 years) does not drop when the door is opened. It seems to correct itself after a day or so. According to some dude on the mini2 forum if you lower the window using the switch, open the door then with the door open raise the window using the switch and hold the switch in the up position for 5 seconds after the window has reached the upper limit it will reset the sensor etc.
Haven't tried it yet but it does make sense. I had a problem with the hatch latch rattling, put up with it for a couple of years. Then one day I read that if you hold the button on the remote down for 3-4 seconds on the second push it releases the hatch latch to the first click making it easier to open. I the the case of my MINI it also realigned something and fixed the rattle.

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2002 Cooper, when New MINIs were new!

That's the good thing (finally, we've found one!) about the body computer and CANBUS driving system the car has: some things can be reset / calibrated.

When I got my car the switch to turn the traction control appeared to do nothing, but after holding it down for a while is now behaves differently. Goes on and off perfectly, every time, needing only a half second or less hold each time.

Tell that dude on the mini2 forum he's a genius.
I did as you described, and at first the result was the window didn't drop a second time if you closed and opened the door again, just stayed in the normal 4 or 5mm dropped postion, still catching the rubber seal. Miracle. Thought, hey, there might be something in this.
So I did the process again, and varied the way a couple of times by dropping the window with the door closed, opened etc, each method holding the switch for a few seconds and voila, it's back to almost normal!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Only thing now is it drops about 15mm, but then goes back up again - this is a good thing, but if it fails to go back up again it will be a bad thing as it will let weather in (when it only drops 4 or 5 mm it is still enough to almost seal it properly against the rubber). But if that happens I'll try some more variants of the method and see how I go.
Thanks fellas!

PS I really do prefer my old mini - never have to worry about this stuff......

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)

Please keep us updated. I wonder if it will get its memory back or if the extra travel is a mechanical issue?
I am going to try and reset the traction control switch on my MINI at the weekend. It seems to disconnect OK at low speeds but I think it may still be cutting in over 5000 rpm. (I drive my MINI in Sprints and Hillclimbs)

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2002 Cooper, when New MINIs were new!

The new MINIs you buy have three settings for the traction control.
On, off and on with a certain amount of slip allowed.

Earlier cars are just on and off, however I think some people have managed to get ECU modifications to do things like have it off all the time, or (more useful to daily driving) let the wheels slip for a little bit before the traction kicks in.

If I can get that done I would, the system is way to sensitive and obtrusive.

Reset the traction control by holding the switch up for 5 seconds. Take off from rest is much smoother, the flat spot I had got used too has disappeared. Haven't tried high speed yet. Will wait for the next track day.

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2002 Cooper, when New MINIs were new!

tinted windows makes the problem worse. its a general bmw prob with there windows. my mates brand new m3 has issues with the windows because of the window tint sticking to the door rubbers. My 02 bini drivers window always stuck closed and would take a few big wacks to get it to move.