Hi All,

Does anybody know the bleed sequence for brakes with the late type master cylinder.



Thanks

I went through hell recently bleeding a `78 tandem one.
I have since been told that one trick is to bleed LR & LF together, then repeat for RR & RF.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeah,,, just bleed "A" front & "A" rear at the same time on the usual "Aust" Front/rear type tandem brake systems

but the UK & Jap type diagonal systems i expect will need "A" right & "A" left open at the same time,,, at a guess

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Hmm Its a 93 Mk 3 Jap shell with japaneese master. I have bench bled the master now and it seems fine out of the car but once installed back in the car i cant get fluid through the top output


I have a gut feeling that the brake pedal is different and not allowing enough travel ( the pedal box is from a early system)


Its not easy to find much info on theese later systems, it seems i may have to try and find a jap pedal box.

Does anyone have any knowledge on theese systems and confirm or deny my theory

The jap ones generally have a vacuum booster attached to the master cylinder is this the case with yours? and the cylinder mounts horizontily and uses a bellcrank assembly to operate it. Should be able to use the old pedal but will need the jap bell crank

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4efte powered Clubman
supercharged 998 race car